Large Dog, Glass Sliding Door

When you walk out your sliding glass door, your dog jumps up on it.

What could cause this behavior?

• The bored dog believes something interesting is going to happen on the other side of the door -- which he is missing out on.
• The dog has learned that this behavior attracts your attention, gets you to vocalize ("Get down!"), or even gets you to come back!
  
• The dog relies on you for assurance and support, and is stressed by being separated from you.
• The dog believes you rely on HIM for assurance and support, and is stressed by being separated from his job, or determined to try to do his job.
• Something else!
  

Understanding what the dog is motivated by--attention, wanting to bring you back, wanting to go out, wanting to go out with you-- could determine what more advanced trainers would use as a reward (and punisher when you DON'T do what dog wants).

However, you don't have to use anything other than good old treats and patience (or is it a stubborn streak? Let's call it patience.) to make it happen! These ideas are only suggestions, and there are ways to successfully modify them. As the adage goes, "there's more than one way to skin a cat." Just, please, don't skin anything.


"Desensitize/Counter-condition"
Go out of the door and come back in before dog has time to jump. Just before you head out, you may need to leave the dog something to do (like a handful of kibble on the floor or Kong or greenie, etc) so it doesn't become a chase game.

Repeat until the dog looks uninterested in you going in and out of the door. This display conveys the idea that most of the time, if you are going outside, you are probably just coming right back in, anyway, so it means nothing when you go out the door.

"Training"= TELLING THE DOG WHAT YOU WANT
Leave door open and ask dog to WAIT.
I know this sounds rather obvious, but it's a great opportunity to practice impulse control. Instead of FORCING the dog to remain behind, you ask the dog to CHOOSE to remain behind, and reward it for doing so.

Approach door & open it.
Ask dog to WAIT.

• As long as dog is pausing (or at least not crossing the line) keep repeating the word "GOOD" & reward with a bit of food after every time you say it.
  
• If dog thinks about crossing the line--SILENTLY or using a single, calm "no" at the moment he thinks about crossing--close door.
• If dog crosses the line--SILENTLY or using a single, calm "no" at the moment he crosses-- immediately bring dog back in (use leash, luring, or any other method you like) and try again UNTIL HE DOES IT RIGHT. Failing to repeat until he succeeds is pointless.
• Release and reward. (Have long-line or leash attached if running off is a worry.)
  
• Gradually extend the amount of time before the dog is released. Once the dog can wait for just a breath or two, you can reward the dog with food on the inside side of the door. ALTERNATIVELY, you can never let the dog out the door, and reward only with food or play inside. Fun inside, boring out.

You can change this slightly with any behavior you want instead of the waiting. You can use sit or down. You can have the criteria be staying on a dog bed, or rug, or towel.

"Behavior Modification" = NO TALKING TO THE DOG

• Leave the door open. Click & reward continuously while dog is doing any acceptable behavior that is NOT crossing the line.

• Click & reward continuously for any & all non-door contact behavior as you approach, open & exit the door. Gradually progress to closing the door for longer and longer times behind you.
  

• Go outside as usual. Time how long the dog fusses at the door. (This is your baseline.) Next time you go outside, don't look, speak, or come back inside until your dog is calm for that same amount of time. Generally, this makes the dog try harder, faster, longer, louder --worsens the behavior before the dog realizes it isn't making you come back. A rule of thumb I read was that it gets about 5times worse before it dawns on the dog. So if your dog normally fusses for 3 minutes, on the next time out, take a book-- you'll probably be there about 15 minutes of fussing plus at least 3 minutes of calm! Only the calm brings you back in the door.

"Dog Whispering"=100% ATTENTION ON DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE

1. Wait facing the door with hand on handle until you see "calm-submissive" body language. Dog should be standing still, not wiggling, with all feet on the floor, relaxed tail, neutral ear position, etc. (If you have to wait more than 5 minutes for this--dog needs more physical and mental stimulation in his life!!)
2. Slowly open the door.
3. Immediately close the door in front of you & walk away (you are inside) for 30-60 seconds if the dog gets even the tiniest bit excited--tail wagging, panting, foot-lifting, ear-perking, pacing, etc. Then you MUST return to try again.
4. Continue until you get the entire exercise completed with no excitement.
5. Give affection!
   

Choosing an approach
Do you want to use a command or do you want it to be automatic?
Do you have easy access to food? Will you remember to use it?
Do you have easy access to a clicker? Will you remember to use it?
Can you pay 100% attention to your dog's body language for 20 minutes or longer or will you get distracted?
What makes the most sense or sounds the most fun?

Choose one you like and see how it goes for you. If it doesn't work, try another. Or ask me or another trainer for ways to modify! You CAN use ALL of them to convey the same basic idea, but it may be easier for both you and the dog if you do each approach separately.

Since almost all the approaches depend on you being committed to continuing until the dog gets it right, what do you do if you don't have the time right now? Don't undo all your hard work by letting the dog rehearse the old behavior. Place the dog in another room, in his crate, tie him somewhere he can't hurt himself or your stuff, etc.