Frequently, adopted dogs require rehabilitation. Even dogs who are "the best of the best" will be impacted by moving from one home to another. So what IS rehabilitation? How does it differ from training?
Rehabilitation of dogs is not conceptually much different than drug & alcohol rehab programs. Rehab is an experience that gives a participant the best possible chance at moving forward and functioning normally. Rehabilitation is for dogs who are doing anything outside of normal behavior.
Rehab incorporates training (meaning deliberately taught response to commands), but there are other elements. Initial training of a dog who "knows nothing", but is otherwise normal is significantly different from training a dog who knows some things but isn't doing them, or who "knows nothing" and is acting fearful, stressed, or frustrated.
When we rehabilitate a dog, we begin by removing the opportunity to make mistakes. We provide the tools we think will give the dog the best chance at being successful. And then we begin teaching.
Rehabilitation typically requires a significant time investment on the part of the human(s) providing it. Most dogs need a bare minimum of 3 hours a day to accomplish full rehabilitation. Anything short of FULL rehabilitation is simply not rehab, and not likely to result in the achievement of complete, long-term success. This routine of 3 hours a day, every single day must continue without skipping a single day for a period of at least 3-6 weeks. Sporadic "rehab" attempts can drag the process out to months or years, risking the dog's emotional well-being, not to mention the physical safety of other people and dogs, in the case of dogs showing or likely to show aggression.
The rehabilitation work of TV star Cesar Millan includes 4 hours of running, a 2-hr feeding ritual, 1/2 hour of sprinting with rollerblading human, and 1/2 hour of playing fetch with a ball. Some dogs receive additional one-on-one attention! In addition to the stimulation provided by the exercise, social interaction is recognized by research in some species to cause increased need for sleep, so the presence of dozens of other dogs helps to force the brain to work.
If you are thinking about rehabilitation for your dog, a great place to start is by providing walking every day. CAUTION! Most average pet owners don't have the fitness level to provide even 2 hours of walking every single day. If you intend to provide this yourself, start with as much as you can comfortably do, and gradually increase the amount of time you walk.
So, how do you start rehab if you can only walk 20 minutes a day?
If you have a dog over 4 years old, the timing is less critical. Just wait until you CAN walk as much as you need to. Unless you have a major issue that must be addressed now, you have the luxury of not paying a significant price for just working your way into the amount of physical work required.
However, if you have a dog who is 4 yrs old or younger, starting rehab NOW is critical. The sooner you start, the shorter the rehab phase will be, and the better your overall long-term results will be. In your situation, find a neighbor, friend, dog walker, or trainer who can work with your dog every day to make up for the time that you cannot provide.
Monday, June 29, 2009
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Priming
In psychology, "priming" refers to situations ("trials") where an early stimulus influences response to a later stimulus. Although this phenomenon describes human behavior, I believe dogs also can be "primed". (Big sigh for the degree I need to get to where I can accurately research this.)
When I took my pitbull Ginger to work with Schutzhund competitor Ivan Balabanov, he insisted that the dog be told which of the 3 components of the sport--tracking, obedience, or protection--that the dog was about to work. Although, at the time, I thought this was silly, I also realized that I was pretty much already doing it.
Obedience phrase "Are you ready?" would send Ginger to seated, at my heel, staring at my face.
Protection cue "Are you ready to rumble?" would induce wiggling and attention away from me (Where's my sleeve?)
Tracking trigger "Where is it?" would put her nose to the ground.
Dogs do not treat all cues equally. Effective, deliberate use of cues reduces stress, because they provide reliable information from which the dog can predict what will happen next with high probability. In the case of my 3 different priming phrases, each one predicted a specific, unique set of correct responses. Sniffing the ground is NOT a correct answer in obedience or protection, but it is the primary correct answer in tracking.
How does this concept affect the average pet dog or pet owner?
Whatever behaviors have been taught, deliberately or accidentally, as responses to priming cues will begin to occur. I recommend deliberately teaching all dogs a desirable response, as priming cues are potential problems for pet owners. Prime the dog for a set of correct behaviors BEFORE a problem arises.
Many humans prime their dogs with phrases like "Who is it?" when someone knocks at the door, "Bye. Be a good boy. Good Boy!" when they leave for the day, "Wanna go for a walk?", "There's the mailman!", and others. Humans also prime dogs with actions, such as walking to where the leash is kept, looking at the treat cabinet, putting the dog in the crate, and adding tension to a leash. It is my suspicion that humans can prime dogs with scent cues, such as the stress hormone.
When we train, it is important to deliberately prime for desirable behaviors, and to deliberately stop (where possible LOL-- Stop stressing, I dare you!) using priming cues that are often followed by undesirable behaviors. In the long term, initially avoided priming cues (ones that elicit undesirable behaviors) can be deliberately re-taught, once the desirable behaviors are easily elicited (as a response to alternative priming cues).
For a unwanted behaviors in response to separation, it is often recommended to exit the house in a completely different manner. Some folks have had to climb out windows! Why does this work? Because that priming cue (climbing out the window) is NOT the priming cue that has repeatedly prompted the dog to stress out (walking out the usual way). Climbing out the window does not predict that you will be gone for 8 hours. You can teach the dog that it does by only climbing out the window, which will work for a few repetitions. However, the dog will rapidly suss out the pattern. This "remedy" only works long-term when the window climb out predicts a variety of time lengths of "abandonment". It is ultimately becoming accustomed to the unpredictable nature of departure and arrival that reduces separation anxiety. A dog that has displayed undesirable behavior before will return to it more rapidly than a dog that "invents" the first undesirable behaviors.
This effect can also be seen with equipment switch. The initial pressure of the flat collar on the neck primes the dog for sled-doggery. When you switch to anything different, for some dogs, even just a different width flat collar, the textural difference can give you an opportunity to prime for a different leash behavior. If you just switch the equipment, the dog will eventually adjust to whatever texture. We've all seen dogs plowing along at the end of every single piece of equipment out there. Once the dog has experienced desirable results from pulling, he will pull sooner on the new equipment than a dog who has never experienced the pulling phenomenon.
What priming cues (words, actions, scent) are you using deliberately and accidentally with your dog?
Which of the priming cues that you use elicit desirable behavior? Are you actively rewarding these desirable behaviors?
Which of the priming cues that you use elicit undesirable behavior? How can you eliminate or change these priming cues? What desirable behaviors can you elicit? How will you reward these desirable behaviors?
When I took my pitbull Ginger to work with Schutzhund competitor Ivan Balabanov, he insisted that the dog be told which of the 3 components of the sport--tracking, obedience, or protection--that the dog was about to work. Although, at the time, I thought this was silly, I also realized that I was pretty much already doing it.
Obedience phrase "Are you ready?" would send Ginger to seated, at my heel, staring at my face.
Protection cue "Are you ready to rumble?" would induce wiggling and attention away from me (Where's my sleeve?)
Tracking trigger "Where is it?" would put her nose to the ground.
Dogs do not treat all cues equally. Effective, deliberate use of cues reduces stress, because they provide reliable information from which the dog can predict what will happen next with high probability. In the case of my 3 different priming phrases, each one predicted a specific, unique set of correct responses. Sniffing the ground is NOT a correct answer in obedience or protection, but it is the primary correct answer in tracking.
How does this concept affect the average pet dog or pet owner?
Whatever behaviors have been taught, deliberately or accidentally, as responses to priming cues will begin to occur. I recommend deliberately teaching all dogs a desirable response, as priming cues are potential problems for pet owners. Prime the dog for a set of correct behaviors BEFORE a problem arises.
Many humans prime their dogs with phrases like "Who is it?" when someone knocks at the door, "Bye. Be a good boy. Good Boy!" when they leave for the day, "Wanna go for a walk?", "There's the mailman!", and others. Humans also prime dogs with actions, such as walking to where the leash is kept, looking at the treat cabinet, putting the dog in the crate, and adding tension to a leash. It is my suspicion that humans can prime dogs with scent cues, such as the stress hormone.
When we train, it is important to deliberately prime for desirable behaviors, and to deliberately stop (where possible LOL-- Stop stressing, I dare you!) using priming cues that are often followed by undesirable behaviors. In the long term, initially avoided priming cues (ones that elicit undesirable behaviors) can be deliberately re-taught, once the desirable behaviors are easily elicited (as a response to alternative priming cues).
For a unwanted behaviors in response to separation, it is often recommended to exit the house in a completely different manner. Some folks have had to climb out windows! Why does this work? Because that priming cue (climbing out the window) is NOT the priming cue that has repeatedly prompted the dog to stress out (walking out the usual way). Climbing out the window does not predict that you will be gone for 8 hours. You can teach the dog that it does by only climbing out the window, which will work for a few repetitions. However, the dog will rapidly suss out the pattern. This "remedy" only works long-term when the window climb out predicts a variety of time lengths of "abandonment". It is ultimately becoming accustomed to the unpredictable nature of departure and arrival that reduces separation anxiety. A dog that has displayed undesirable behavior before will return to it more rapidly than a dog that "invents" the first undesirable behaviors.
This effect can also be seen with equipment switch. The initial pressure of the flat collar on the neck primes the dog for sled-doggery. When you switch to anything different, for some dogs, even just a different width flat collar, the textural difference can give you an opportunity to prime for a different leash behavior. If you just switch the equipment, the dog will eventually adjust to whatever texture. We've all seen dogs plowing along at the end of every single piece of equipment out there. Once the dog has experienced desirable results from pulling, he will pull sooner on the new equipment than a dog who has never experienced the pulling phenomenon.
What priming cues (words, actions, scent) are you using deliberately and accidentally with your dog?
Which of the priming cues that you use elicit desirable behavior? Are you actively rewarding these desirable behaviors?
Which of the priming cues that you use elicit undesirable behavior? How can you eliminate or change these priming cues? What desirable behaviors can you elicit? How will you reward these desirable behaviors?
Pet Basics
Every pet should:
Accept handling
Accept grooming
Be able to be walked
Not fight with other dogs
Accept handling
Accept grooming
Be able to be walked
Not fight with other dogs
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Maximizing Benefit from Relationship with a Canine Professional
Right now, training & behavior management is viewed by most owners as exactly the same as car service. You wait to get help until you see a problem. You can't fix a problem before it starts, can you? You just have to wait until it happens, or even make it happen, so you can "nip it in the bud". You get help, you get results or you don't, and then you go back or you try another professional if you have another problem. Just like car service, problems just stay the same until you fix them. Sometimes they even go away by themselves... Right? These common misconceptions are dangerous.
Teaching a dog is not like servicing your car
Canine behavior is not best addressed with a "snapshot" perspective. It is best addressed over time -- months & years is an appropriate time frame on which to evaluate the success or failure of your efforts. Because of the importance of the "long" view, the development of a relationship with a behavior professional should be considered as most similar to that one might cultivate with a doctor or psychologist.
Problem Prevention
The fact is that you CAN prevent problems. Preventing problems is significantly more effective at achieving long-term results. Nothing "buds" for you to "nip"!
Once an issue has "budded", the sooner it is diagnosed and treated, the less work (less time, less expense) it requires. Not only is it easier, but early intervention also has more lasting results. A related problem that professionals face is that many owners don't recognize "buds". We are contacted once the issue is in full bloom!
Adolescent Volatility
After your professional provides you some instruction, you should start seeing some results. However, many owners do not realize the volatility of adolescent behavior -- one day she's acting like a puppy, the next day, she's an intractable "teen". So, from the owner's perspective, this seems like a problem with the training advice, the technique, or the trainer. In fact, it's just par for the course.
This volatility is also responsible for the misconception that problem behaviors can just disappear. Often, owners are lead to believe that their adolescent is on the right track on the days when the dog is acting like a puppy. They love the dog and want to see those "good days" as signs that things are improving. In fact, they are using "selective vision" -- simply choosing to pay attention to what they want to see. It's sweet that these owners want to see the good in their dogs. It's unfortunate that this lovely sentiment often results in worsening behavior.
Economics
Owners can be reluctant to communicate openly and honestly with their professional because they want to save money, and they believe the professional is only motivated by selling more training. This CAN absolutely be true. I recently heard about a trainer who was selling agility training -- and the trainer had never competed in agility!
Select a pro who can provide references from experienced, knowledgeable participants in the dog community, not just from owners who may not realize that what they called "success" may not last, or that what worked for their dog won't necessarily work for yours. Owners who have selected poor trainers can even delude themselves into thinking that they made a good choice, simply because they don't want to admit the truth, that they made a mistake.
"Technique"
Some owners fail to report lack of results because they want to avoid hearing the trainer say, "I think you need to use [insert objectionable method]". The "objectionable method" can be anything from taking more walks, to using treats, a crate, a collar, a leash... I've heard objections to just about every teaching tool out there!
If you work with a professional who understands multiple techniques, there may be alternatives to use of whatever tool or technique you don't like. Of course, in the case of taking the dog to the correct potty spot when it has to go --there also may not be! "Ok, but what else can I try?" A cork? NO.
Human Learning
Humans don't like to admit that they failed to learn some or all of what the professional was teaching. Unfortunately, ego is not your friend when it comes to training dogs! I am continually puzzled at why humans expect themselves... and their dogs... to "get it" on the first time through. Learning research in humans has shown that it takes about EIGHT (8) repetitions of a brand-new concept for a human to actually retain it. Replacing an old, faulty idea takes TWENTY (20) repetitions. I have a very high IQ (not a big deal--you just come with it "from the factory" like having blue eyes), which means learning comes to me easily and naturally. Even I need at least 3 repetitions for something brand-new!
Part of the relationship you develop with your trainer should allow for you to follow-up and ask questions. Because answering questions takes part of the trainer's workday, many trainers need to charge you for their time in order to support themselves. This practice, unlike the agility or Schutzhund trainer who has never competed, is a fair one. Simply pay their fee, and/or schedule a lesson. It is not a good idea to seek out "free advice" once you have started with one technique. Switching techniques can result in confusion and additional stress to the dog, which is never helpful when you are addressing problems.
Keep In Contact
Providing your professional with continuing updates on your dog's behavior, whether good or bad, benefits you, your dog, and your professional. So, what should you say? Most dog professionals are dog lovers who love to hear about dogs.
Let them know specific details of what seems to be going right: your goal, what you are doing, how often, what equipment or tools you use, what you say. "Princess's walking is going well. We are taking 2 walks a day, every day, for twenty minutes each time. We are using the flat harness and the retractable leash. I don't talk to her on the walk at all, except when we step out the door, I say, 'Let's go'."
Also describe the details of what seems to be going wrong: what happens, how often, warning signs, what you have been doing with the dog, what you think may be happening. "Aggie's growling at the neighbor's dog when she comes over to visit. I correct it by using the shake can. I think he may be becoming aggressive."
Talk about specific lessons you worked on, and ask specific questions. "When we did the down stay, do I give the treats when the dog is laying on the floor or when he gets up?"
Teaching a dog is not like servicing your car
Canine behavior is not best addressed with a "snapshot" perspective. It is best addressed over time -- months & years is an appropriate time frame on which to evaluate the success or failure of your efforts. Because of the importance of the "long" view, the development of a relationship with a behavior professional should be considered as most similar to that one might cultivate with a doctor or psychologist.
Problem Prevention
The fact is that you CAN prevent problems. Preventing problems is significantly more effective at achieving long-term results. Nothing "buds" for you to "nip"!
Once an issue has "budded", the sooner it is diagnosed and treated, the less work (less time, less expense) it requires. Not only is it easier, but early intervention also has more lasting results. A related problem that professionals face is that many owners don't recognize "buds". We are contacted once the issue is in full bloom!
Adolescent Volatility
After your professional provides you some instruction, you should start seeing some results. However, many owners do not realize the volatility of adolescent behavior -- one day she's acting like a puppy, the next day, she's an intractable "teen". So, from the owner's perspective, this seems like a problem with the training advice, the technique, or the trainer. In fact, it's just par for the course.
This volatility is also responsible for the misconception that problem behaviors can just disappear. Often, owners are lead to believe that their adolescent is on the right track on the days when the dog is acting like a puppy. They love the dog and want to see those "good days" as signs that things are improving. In fact, they are using "selective vision" -- simply choosing to pay attention to what they want to see. It's sweet that these owners want to see the good in their dogs. It's unfortunate that this lovely sentiment often results in worsening behavior.
Economics
Owners can be reluctant to communicate openly and honestly with their professional because they want to save money, and they believe the professional is only motivated by selling more training. This CAN absolutely be true. I recently heard about a trainer who was selling agility training -- and the trainer had never competed in agility!
Select a pro who can provide references from experienced, knowledgeable participants in the dog community, not just from owners who may not realize that what they called "success" may not last, or that what worked for their dog won't necessarily work for yours. Owners who have selected poor trainers can even delude themselves into thinking that they made a good choice, simply because they don't want to admit the truth, that they made a mistake.
"Technique"
Some owners fail to report lack of results because they want to avoid hearing the trainer say, "I think you need to use [insert objectionable method]". The "objectionable method" can be anything from taking more walks, to using treats, a crate, a collar, a leash... I've heard objections to just about every teaching tool out there!
If you work with a professional who understands multiple techniques, there may be alternatives to use of whatever tool or technique you don't like. Of course, in the case of taking the dog to the correct potty spot when it has to go --there also may not be! "Ok, but what else can I try?" A cork? NO.
Human Learning
Humans don't like to admit that they failed to learn some or all of what the professional was teaching. Unfortunately, ego is not your friend when it comes to training dogs! I am continually puzzled at why humans expect themselves... and their dogs... to "get it" on the first time through. Learning research in humans has shown that it takes about EIGHT (8) repetitions of a brand-new concept for a human to actually retain it. Replacing an old, faulty idea takes TWENTY (20) repetitions. I have a very high IQ (not a big deal--you just come with it "from the factory" like having blue eyes), which means learning comes to me easily and naturally. Even I need at least 3 repetitions for something brand-new!
Part of the relationship you develop with your trainer should allow for you to follow-up and ask questions. Because answering questions takes part of the trainer's workday, many trainers need to charge you for their time in order to support themselves. This practice, unlike the agility or Schutzhund trainer who has never competed, is a fair one. Simply pay their fee, and/or schedule a lesson. It is not a good idea to seek out "free advice" once you have started with one technique. Switching techniques can result in confusion and additional stress to the dog, which is never helpful when you are addressing problems.
Keep In Contact
Providing your professional with continuing updates on your dog's behavior, whether good or bad, benefits you, your dog, and your professional. So, what should you say? Most dog professionals are dog lovers who love to hear about dogs.
Let them know specific details of what seems to be going right: your goal, what you are doing, how often, what equipment or tools you use, what you say. "Princess's walking is going well. We are taking 2 walks a day, every day, for twenty minutes each time. We are using the flat harness and the retractable leash. I don't talk to her on the walk at all, except when we step out the door, I say, 'Let's go'."
Also describe the details of what seems to be going wrong: what happens, how often, warning signs, what you have been doing with the dog, what you think may be happening. "Aggie's growling at the neighbor's dog when she comes over to visit. I correct it by using the shake can. I think he may be becoming aggressive."
Talk about specific lessons you worked on, and ask specific questions. "When we did the down stay, do I give the treats when the dog is laying on the floor or when he gets up?"
Ignoring Things
Ignoring things is a powerful tool for teaching. While the power of ignoring unwanted attention-seeking behaviors is recognized and recommended, this strategy is not what I am talking about.
I am referring to our reactions to the world at large. The dog pays attention to what we pay attention to.
"What is it, human? What are you looking at? What are you thinking about? What are you excited by? What are you afraid of? I'll look at/think about/be excited about/fear that, too!"
Things that we attend to are things that have some meaning to us, and therefore to the dog. Things that we "don't see" are things that aren't really there. I personally "don't see" grass or trees. The city dwellers among us "don't see" sidewalk or manhole covers. This unique fingerprint of that to which we attend is what I believe accounts for much of the "dog resembling owner" phenomenon.
I am referring to our reactions to the world at large. The dog pays attention to what we pay attention to.
"What is it, human? What are you looking at? What are you thinking about? What are you excited by? What are you afraid of? I'll look at/think about/be excited about/fear that, too!"
Things that we attend to are things that have some meaning to us, and therefore to the dog. Things that we "don't see" are things that aren't really there. I personally "don't see" grass or trees. The city dwellers among us "don't see" sidewalk or manhole covers. This unique fingerprint of that to which we attend is what I believe accounts for much of the "dog resembling owner" phenomenon.
Greeting Other Dogs
What I do with my dog: "My dog" meaning, any dog I am handling. As do many dog lovers, I feel every dog is my dog. Guess that's why I am so passionate about what you all are doing to "my dog".
I allow my dog to greet all dogs, nice or not. Although, as someone pointed out, I would discourage my dog from distracting a service dog performing his duties. Generally, dogs focusing on work are not of interest to my dogs. My dog may greet dogs who are not nice, permitted that my dog shows curiosity and friendliness. (What do curiosity and friendliness look like?)
My dog is not permitted to hump during a greeting. My dog is permitted to sniff butts of dogs who are comfortable with butt-sniffing.
However, my dog IS permitted to grumble at rude dogs. (Can you identify a rude dog greeting? How does it compare to a polite greeting?) They should be permitted to avoid dogs they do not wish to greet.
I allow my dog to greet all dogs, nice or not. Although, as someone pointed out, I would discourage my dog from distracting a service dog performing his duties. Generally, dogs focusing on work are not of interest to my dogs. My dog may greet dogs who are not nice, permitted that my dog shows curiosity and friendliness. (What do curiosity and friendliness look like?)
My dog is not permitted to hump during a greeting. My dog is permitted to sniff butts of dogs who are comfortable with butt-sniffing.
However, my dog IS permitted to grumble at rude dogs. (Can you identify a rude dog greeting? How does it compare to a polite greeting?) They should be permitted to avoid dogs they do not wish to greet.
Are you Overly Pre-Emptive? Is that possible?
The owner who fails to plan for the development of his dog into an agreeable companion, suitable for his lifestyle, is, I believe, a bugaboo of trainers and behavior professionals.
However, I believe there is also the Overly Pre-Emptive owner who is so terrified of having problems, that their "diligence" actually creates problems. These are the owners who cannot differentiate between normal range of dog emotions & behaviors and abnormal ones. When do you step in? "Nip it in the bud" is a great approach to weeding, but not always effective for encouraging desirable dog behaviors.
Choosing when and what to actively teach, and choosing when to ignore it is part of what is now regarded as the "art" of dog training. Largely, I think, because we don't understand it clearly. We have no large chunks of solid research or data on the subject. (At least, not that I am aware of. Please tell me I'm wrong?)
For my decision-making process, the factors affecting the decision are not now very precise. It's not that the dog is scared/aggressive or not scared/aggressive. It's not black or white. Our decision is not "train if scared/aggressive", versus "ignore if not". The reality of the situation, its greyness, is what makes handling both scared and aggressive dogs very complicated.
The dog is scared, but how scared? (For further research, what body language indicators and personality typing info is Nicole's brain using to quantify "how scared"?) Being scared is part of what keeps animals & humans safe. Some healthy fear keeps dogs from roaming into traffic, being bitten by other dogs, and from exploring other potentially hazardous "unknowns". Unhealthy fear interferes with the dog's ability to learn, eat, move, and process her environment. Unhealthy fear jeopardizes the dog, and dog's owner, in many ways. Imagine a scared mastiff who bolts in a downtown area -- not only is the dog in danger, but also the human rag-doll attached to the leash!
The dog is "grouching", but how aggressive is it? (Again, for more research, what measurable factors do gifted"natural" trainers use to make this call?) An effective growl helps a dog keep an unwelcome or threatening animal at bay. An ineffective growl heightens the stress level of a dog-dog interaction, making injury more likely.
The dog is interested in watching something, but is it obsessed? Curiosity is natural, healthy, and provides the mental stimulation dogs need for a balanced "normal" life. But "locking on" to such stimuli as light can pose a threat to the dog's safety if it's brain is not open to other, potentially hazardous stimuli. I have a former client whose obsession-inclined dog leapt into freezing water mid-winter in response to the "sparklies" he saw on the water, who endangered both himself and his loving owner who leapt in after him.
Every behavior can be too little, too much, or a range of somewhere in-between. One tiny point on that range of in-between-ness is "ideal". There are countless ways the dog can be "OK", even if it isn't ideal. This concept of multiple "right" answers is difficult for most people to accept from their dogs, but imagine extending this concept to our expectations of human behavior...!
Imagine if we demanded that everyone around us think, feel, and behave exactly as we defined ideal -- which, of course, would be exactly how WE think, feel, and behave... But, in a sense, isn't this is how we approach dogs when we insist they never feel fear, they never grouch at rudeness, never show interest in potential distractions?
When an owner is Overly Pre-Emptive, they begin to steer the dog away from in-between-ness. Which, not always, but sometimes, can result in steering the dog TO the extremes. We take a dog AWAY FROM having an acceptable amount of fear/communication/curiosity, TOWARDS the extremes of too much or too little.
Similar to the wisdom of consulting a doctor before starting a diet, consulting with a professional or other very experienced individual is the intelligent way to decide how you are going to proceed with your dog.
However, I believe there is also the Overly Pre-Emptive owner who is so terrified of having problems, that their "diligence" actually creates problems. These are the owners who cannot differentiate between normal range of dog emotions & behaviors and abnormal ones. When do you step in? "Nip it in the bud" is a great approach to weeding, but not always effective for encouraging desirable dog behaviors.
Choosing when and what to actively teach, and choosing when to ignore it is part of what is now regarded as the "art" of dog training. Largely, I think, because we don't understand it clearly. We have no large chunks of solid research or data on the subject. (At least, not that I am aware of. Please tell me I'm wrong?)
For my decision-making process, the factors affecting the decision are not now very precise. It's not that the dog is scared/aggressive or not scared/aggressive. It's not black or white. Our decision is not "train if scared/aggressive", versus "ignore if not". The reality of the situation, its greyness, is what makes handling both scared and aggressive dogs very complicated.
The dog is scared, but how scared? (For further research, what body language indicators and personality typing info is Nicole's brain using to quantify "how scared"?) Being scared is part of what keeps animals & humans safe. Some healthy fear keeps dogs from roaming into traffic, being bitten by other dogs, and from exploring other potentially hazardous "unknowns". Unhealthy fear interferes with the dog's ability to learn, eat, move, and process her environment. Unhealthy fear jeopardizes the dog, and dog's owner, in many ways. Imagine a scared mastiff who bolts in a downtown area -- not only is the dog in danger, but also the human rag-doll attached to the leash!
The dog is "grouching", but how aggressive is it? (Again, for more research, what measurable factors do gifted"natural" trainers use to make this call?) An effective growl helps a dog keep an unwelcome or threatening animal at bay. An ineffective growl heightens the stress level of a dog-dog interaction, making injury more likely.
The dog is interested in watching something, but is it obsessed? Curiosity is natural, healthy, and provides the mental stimulation dogs need for a balanced "normal" life. But "locking on" to such stimuli as light can pose a threat to the dog's safety if it's brain is not open to other, potentially hazardous stimuli. I have a former client whose obsession-inclined dog leapt into freezing water mid-winter in response to the "sparklies" he saw on the water, who endangered both himself and his loving owner who leapt in after him.
Every behavior can be too little, too much, or a range of somewhere in-between. One tiny point on that range of in-between-ness is "ideal". There are countless ways the dog can be "OK", even if it isn't ideal. This concept of multiple "right" answers is difficult for most people to accept from their dogs, but imagine extending this concept to our expectations of human behavior...!
Imagine if we demanded that everyone around us think, feel, and behave exactly as we defined ideal -- which, of course, would be exactly how WE think, feel, and behave... But, in a sense, isn't this is how we approach dogs when we insist they never feel fear, they never grouch at rudeness, never show interest in potential distractions?
When an owner is Overly Pre-Emptive, they begin to steer the dog away from in-between-ness. Which, not always, but sometimes, can result in steering the dog TO the extremes. We take a dog AWAY FROM having an acceptable amount of fear/communication/curiosity, TOWARDS the extremes of too much or too little.
Similar to the wisdom of consulting a doctor before starting a diet, consulting with a professional or other very experienced individual is the intelligent way to decide how you are going to proceed with your dog.
Monday, June 22, 2009
"distractions" in adolescent dogs
Adolescence is a surprise. Most owners do not expect what occurs at adolescence. Good owners, who have spent much time carefully and deliberately training their pup, find themselves with "teen" dogs who do some of the most aggravating, frightening, and just plain weird things.
Some owners view this phase as evidence of failure of puppy training techniques. They see "Hmm.... puppy training was gentle & reward-oriented. Now I am seeing behaviors I don't want, so that means that gentle & reward-oriented doesn't work."
Nothing could be further from the truth. The adolescent brain is capable of so much more than the puppy brain. Yes, hormones must have an effect (c'mon kids, let's get testing this stuff) . Even if they have had spay/neuter at age 6 months, they have had at least a taste of some hormones. But even early spay/neuter candidates seem to have some degree of behavioral change, which I argue relates to full development of brain capacities.
Adolescence is marked by "distraction". Owners having trouble with their "teen" use this word a lot. Now, "distraction" is a human word. "Reward" is the dog word. What _I_ see is that we have a dog who has had the same access to these rewards for the past 12 months, and kept choosing the human who is only NOW getting around to choosing the distraction over the reward presented by the human.
My belief is that this "distractability" is related to the same root cause as the difference between how long a training session can be for a puppy compared to how long it can be for an adolescent.
The problem is NOT that the adolescent is MORE distractable -- it's that she is LESS distractable. Once her brain starts wrapping itself around the mysteries of something so all-absorbing, like what a squirrel really represents... That package of smell and movement and sound, well, you just know that you really like that.
While her brain is flooded with squirrel-related contemplations... Well, it's going to take a lot more to distract her BACK to your boring handful of Milk Bones (or... snort... SITTING for your stupid treats?) than the cough or the jingle of keys or various other non-predictors-of-anything-as-interesting-as-a-squirrel that you used to use when she was a puppy.
For this reason, I LOVE play as a training tool for adolescent dogs. Because I have noticed that the distraction that seems to beat all distractions when you are an adolescent dog is the opportunity to play with another dog. Play is powerful!
Puppies are unable to focus on anything for terribly long. (I suspect biologically unable.) They are quickly distracted from focusing on the "distraction"(what the human doesn't want them to think about) by the cough, clapping hands, a giggle, the keys,-- very very mild stimuli. However, they are just as easily distracted from focus on the human. That shifting focus doesn't pose a problem in puppyhood, because the puppy brain doesn't really "lock on" to any particular thought in the way that the adolescent brain gradually starts to be able to do.
I suspect that this gradual increase in focus and increased resistance to milder stimuli is to blame for the practice of using more and more aversive distractors. Oddly, there is no matching practice of more and more salient (delicious) rewards.
What does this mean for training? When you have your adolescent's attention, you've got to overwhelm the brain in the way the squirrel does. One way to do this is to ratchet up your criteria. It's no longer good enough for the dog to just sit. Now, the dog has to sit faster than ever. Loose-leash walking isn't mentally demanding enough -- now it's time to start the focus-demanding heel. Whatever you asked for before, it's now time to ask more.
Another way is to provide more stimulating reinforcers. The milder the stimuli you use for puppy training, the easier it is to step up. Food rewards should be smellier and dogs should be hungrier than ever! Use play! Touch the dog as a distractor! Use some training equipment (properly).
How much you have to step up and for how long will vary significantly by individual dog. Once you do, it's still an up-and-down experience that makes trainers question: Should I add more punishment? Should I add more reward? Sometimes yes, sometimes no.
Deliberately working through adolescence properly--with patience, expecting ups&downs, and teaching whatever needs work-- has big payoffs as the dog reaches adulthood at 3-4 years of age. Behaviors solidify, in the way that humans get more set in our ways as we get older (again, suspect biological reason for this lack of "creativity"). So, good, desirable behaviors are no longer the "gamble" we saw during the adolescent phase. We begin to see the real lessons that the dog has learned. Dogs who have been properly trained and managed, whose needs have been met, blossom into dogs who are everything they can be.
On the other, hand, the solidification of behaviors also works against us. If, during the adolescent phase, when dog often test aggression, avoidance, or other behaviors for the first time, if the adult dog has learned that unwanted behaviors work for him -- we have an uphill battle thru adulthood. Once the adult dog knows he can make them work, well, it's hard to convince him that they don't. He knows they do. "No, no, Killer, that person isn't REALLY backing away from your growling..."
While puppyhood is about exploring puppy's relationship with the big wide world out there, adolescence is, in my opinion, the time when you can have the biggest impact on your relationship with your dog. Use it to your advantage!
Some owners view this phase as evidence of failure of puppy training techniques. They see "Hmm.... puppy training was gentle & reward-oriented. Now I am seeing behaviors I don't want, so that means that gentle & reward-oriented doesn't work."
Nothing could be further from the truth. The adolescent brain is capable of so much more than the puppy brain. Yes, hormones must have an effect (c'mon kids, let's get testing this stuff) . Even if they have had spay/neuter at age 6 months, they have had at least a taste of some hormones. But even early spay/neuter candidates seem to have some degree of behavioral change, which I argue relates to full development of brain capacities.
Adolescence is marked by "distraction". Owners having trouble with their "teen" use this word a lot. Now, "distraction" is a human word. "Reward" is the dog word. What _I_ see is that we have a dog who has had the same access to these rewards for the past 12 months, and kept choosing the human who is only NOW getting around to choosing the distraction over the reward presented by the human.
My belief is that this "distractability" is related to the same root cause as the difference between how long a training session can be for a puppy compared to how long it can be for an adolescent.
The problem is NOT that the adolescent is MORE distractable -- it's that she is LESS distractable. Once her brain starts wrapping itself around the mysteries of something so all-absorbing, like what a squirrel really represents... That package of smell and movement and sound, well, you just know that you really like that.
While her brain is flooded with squirrel-related contemplations... Well, it's going to take a lot more to distract her BACK to your boring handful of Milk Bones (or... snort... SITTING for your stupid treats?) than the cough or the jingle of keys or various other non-predictors-of-anything-as-interesting-as-a-squirrel that you used to use when she was a puppy.
For this reason, I LOVE play as a training tool for adolescent dogs. Because I have noticed that the distraction that seems to beat all distractions when you are an adolescent dog is the opportunity to play with another dog. Play is powerful!
Puppies are unable to focus on anything for terribly long. (I suspect biologically unable.) They are quickly distracted from focusing on the "distraction"(what the human doesn't want them to think about) by the cough, clapping hands, a giggle, the keys,-- very very mild stimuli. However, they are just as easily distracted from focus on the human. That shifting focus doesn't pose a problem in puppyhood, because the puppy brain doesn't really "lock on" to any particular thought in the way that the adolescent brain gradually starts to be able to do.
I suspect that this gradual increase in focus and increased resistance to milder stimuli is to blame for the practice of using more and more aversive distractors. Oddly, there is no matching practice of more and more salient (delicious) rewards.
What does this mean for training? When you have your adolescent's attention, you've got to overwhelm the brain in the way the squirrel does. One way to do this is to ratchet up your criteria. It's no longer good enough for the dog to just sit. Now, the dog has to sit faster than ever. Loose-leash walking isn't mentally demanding enough -- now it's time to start the focus-demanding heel. Whatever you asked for before, it's now time to ask more.
Another way is to provide more stimulating reinforcers. The milder the stimuli you use for puppy training, the easier it is to step up. Food rewards should be smellier and dogs should be hungrier than ever! Use play! Touch the dog as a distractor! Use some training equipment (properly).
How much you have to step up and for how long will vary significantly by individual dog. Once you do, it's still an up-and-down experience that makes trainers question: Should I add more punishment? Should I add more reward? Sometimes yes, sometimes no.
Deliberately working through adolescence properly--with patience, expecting ups&downs, and teaching whatever needs work-- has big payoffs as the dog reaches adulthood at 3-4 years of age. Behaviors solidify, in the way that humans get more set in our ways as we get older (again, suspect biological reason for this lack of "creativity"). So, good, desirable behaviors are no longer the "gamble" we saw during the adolescent phase. We begin to see the real lessons that the dog has learned. Dogs who have been properly trained and managed, whose needs have been met, blossom into dogs who are everything they can be.
On the other, hand, the solidification of behaviors also works against us. If, during the adolescent phase, when dog often test aggression, avoidance, or other behaviors for the first time, if the adult dog has learned that unwanted behaviors work for him -- we have an uphill battle thru adulthood. Once the adult dog knows he can make them work, well, it's hard to convince him that they don't. He knows they do. "No, no, Killer, that person isn't REALLY backing away from your growling..."
While puppyhood is about exploring puppy's relationship with the big wide world out there, adolescence is, in my opinion, the time when you can have the biggest impact on your relationship with your dog. Use it to your advantage!
Are you slicing a chunk off your tofurkey?
Rules are often cited as justification for continued use of any method.
"Why are you [insert human training behavior]?"
"Because it works. Because you are supposed to. Because this is how my family always did it. Because it is my preference."
When I hear this language, I get a chill up my spine. These "explanations" often reveal that the speaker has not the slightest clue about why they are doing what they are doing.
Reminds me of the joke about the woman who slices a chunk off her turkey... it's my joke now... tofurkey... before putting it in the pan. When her child questions this behavior, the woman responds, "I think it has something to do with the moisture content. It's how your grandmother always did it." Turns out, that mother had to cut the chunk off of the turkey... tofurkey... to fit it in the pan.
Humans have a remarkable capacity for what could be described as "supertitious" behaviors. If I do X, and then Y happens, X must be causing Y.
If I cut the chunk off the tofurkey, and the tofurkey is (arguably) edible, clearly the chunk-cutting is the reason why. I've always cut the chunk off. The food has always cooked properly. You can't argue with success.
Although this train of thought is called "superstitious" (meaning the cause only appears to be related to the effect, even though it isn't) for humans, transitive logic is the standard for dogs.
If I lower my bum to the floor, the door of my crate will be opened. If I place my front feet on our guest's shoulders, I will be acknowledged. If I walk towards a boundary, I will catch someone's attention, they will call me to come, and I'll receive a cookie for coming to them. For dogs, it doesn't even have to happen EVERY time! As long as the outcome (opened door, acknowledgement, attention-command-cookie) is more likely than not, the dog believes there is an association there. From the dog's perspective, this is undeniable.
In one of her books, Temple Grandin describes the behavior of pigs at feeding time. (I'm under the impression that pigs may be even more environmentally aware than dogs with regard to what behaviors result in food.) The pigs repeat whatever behaviors appeared to work when feeding time first came around. "Let's see.... I was rocking back and forth and angled to the left, and then I saw food. So obviously, the rocking back and forth and angling makes the food come to me."
As the human, we realize that the feeder is responsible for the food coming to the pig. Yay! What a clever human!
Don't get too excited.
What makes human learning of new behaviors difficult is that our brains are less adept than animals with the concept of probability. One of many areas where we are "dumber" than animals. Dog definition of IQ must have a lot to do with food-finding abilities. Put a sandwich in the middle of a cornfield. Simulateously release hungry dog and hungry human. Who eats the sandwich? Clearly, by dog definition, the eater is smarter!
We assign more weight to whatever we heard first (serial position effect), even if it was a single event. We have a hard time sorting out patterns that include both successes & failures. We have very little intuition regarding probability, which is frankly child's play to animals. "Your dog has jumped up on 55% of the people who come thru the front door. Someone is at the front door. What is likely to happen next?" Your dog finds this a significantly easier question than you do.
Where is this leading? The problem with teaching humans to do something different or new is a) they love rules, and b) any apparent failure causes them to throw out the baby with the bath water.
The rule-lovers say, "Ah! This isn't working because I wasn't using the right rule. The old guy told me A, this other guy is telling me B. I just have to switch rules, and then it will work!"
Those who have switched rules will likely experience failure. Now the entire approach is at fault: Cookies don't work! Tug causes aggression! Choke collars don't stop pulling!
The point that this raises is that, whether we like it or not, as trainers, we have to understand the subject matter that we are teaching to a level that is beyond superstitious. Why is the rule the rule? What is going thru the dog's mind in the situation when this rule applies and works? What about when the rule doesn't work? Why doesn't it work?
Question everything.
"Why are you [insert human training behavior]?"
"Because it works. Because you are supposed to. Because this is how my family always did it. Because it is my preference."
When I hear this language, I get a chill up my spine. These "explanations" often reveal that the speaker has not the slightest clue about why they are doing what they are doing.
Reminds me of the joke about the woman who slices a chunk off her turkey... it's my joke now... tofurkey... before putting it in the pan. When her child questions this behavior, the woman responds, "I think it has something to do with the moisture content. It's how your grandmother always did it." Turns out, that mother had to cut the chunk off of the turkey... tofurkey... to fit it in the pan.
Humans have a remarkable capacity for what could be described as "supertitious" behaviors. If I do X, and then Y happens, X must be causing Y.
If I cut the chunk off the tofurkey, and the tofurkey is (arguably) edible, clearly the chunk-cutting is the reason why. I've always cut the chunk off. The food has always cooked properly. You can't argue with success.
Although this train of thought is called "superstitious" (meaning the cause only appears to be related to the effect, even though it isn't) for humans, transitive logic is the standard for dogs.
If I lower my bum to the floor, the door of my crate will be opened. If I place my front feet on our guest's shoulders, I will be acknowledged. If I walk towards a boundary, I will catch someone's attention, they will call me to come, and I'll receive a cookie for coming to them. For dogs, it doesn't even have to happen EVERY time! As long as the outcome (opened door, acknowledgement, attention-command-cookie) is more likely than not, the dog believes there is an association there. From the dog's perspective, this is undeniable.
In one of her books, Temple Grandin describes the behavior of pigs at feeding time. (I'm under the impression that pigs may be even more environmentally aware than dogs with regard to what behaviors result in food.) The pigs repeat whatever behaviors appeared to work when feeding time first came around. "Let's see.... I was rocking back and forth and angled to the left, and then I saw food. So obviously, the rocking back and forth and angling makes the food come to me."
As the human, we realize that the feeder is responsible for the food coming to the pig. Yay! What a clever human!
Don't get too excited.
What makes human learning of new behaviors difficult is that our brains are less adept than animals with the concept of probability. One of many areas where we are "dumber" than animals. Dog definition of IQ must have a lot to do with food-finding abilities. Put a sandwich in the middle of a cornfield. Simulateously release hungry dog and hungry human. Who eats the sandwich? Clearly, by dog definition, the eater is smarter!
We assign more weight to whatever we heard first (serial position effect), even if it was a single event. We have a hard time sorting out patterns that include both successes & failures. We have very little intuition regarding probability, which is frankly child's play to animals. "Your dog has jumped up on 55% of the people who come thru the front door. Someone is at the front door. What is likely to happen next?" Your dog finds this a significantly easier question than you do.
Where is this leading? The problem with teaching humans to do something different or new is a) they love rules, and b) any apparent failure causes them to throw out the baby with the bath water.
The rule-lovers say, "Ah! This isn't working because I wasn't using the right rule. The old guy told me A, this other guy is telling me B. I just have to switch rules, and then it will work!"
Those who have switched rules will likely experience failure. Now the entire approach is at fault: Cookies don't work! Tug causes aggression! Choke collars don't stop pulling!
The point that this raises is that, whether we like it or not, as trainers, we have to understand the subject matter that we are teaching to a level that is beyond superstitious. Why is the rule the rule? What is going thru the dog's mind in the situation when this rule applies and works? What about when the rule doesn't work? Why doesn't it work?
Question everything.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
AAUGH! Frustration
Frustration is a powerful emotion. Tolerance of lack of success is a skill that must be built and practiced on both ends of the leash.
Again, I generally find that dogs pick up this skill more quickly, given their adeptness with probability. They are more inclined to take a failure in stride, because a single trial does not significantly effect their overall picture.
"Out of the 100 times I sat, 64 of them resulted in something good. In my mind, there is a 64% chance of something good from sitting." Whether the actual number is 63 or 65, the overall probability of something good happening from sitting is high enough for the dog to continue to believe that "Sitting works!", even though it actually doesn't work 35-37% of the time.
ALL teachers -- owners, trainers, competitors -- experience some degree of failure. At some point, your student (dog) is not going to give you the response that is your goal. The student does not conjugate the French verb "aller". The dog doesn't sit. The client does not use a release word. The dog looks away from your eyes during a heeling exercise.
This single mistake is disheartening. There is something so human about a single failure making us into Charlie Brown "AAUGH!" The emotion of AAUGH! is, I believe, contagious between humans and dogs. I don't know if we push them into frustration because of our frustration or if they are so sympathetic as to just feel what we do, but I know that once I see frustration on either end of the leash, learning is about to stop.
Emotions and thinking do not coincide well. The brain does not multi-task. It can shift focus rapidly, but it does not multi-task. (Thanks, Dr. John Medina! All teachers should read "Brain Rules".) We exploit this to good effect when we ask frightened dogs to sit or give Hi-5 or heel. It is important to realize that this can work the other way as well.
Thinking can be interrupted by feeling equally well as feeling can be interrupted by thinking. You can stop your dog's lovely heel work with your few mis-timed reinforcers (punishments or rewards). Your mis-timing will frustrate the dog. "What the heck? NOW what are the rules?"
Since many dogs are good and kind, no one is chomped for this unfairness. But when I feel AAUGH!, if I had a mouthful of teeth and something squishy to chomp... well, I think it would take more than a few biscuits to stop me. Heaven help us if you decided to correct me for thinking about chomping! I'm not saying I excuse biting dogs, but I do understand them. (I am a shameless anthropomorphosizer. Or do I caninomorphi... ? well, whatever.)
Mistakes are part of the game. They are part of the experience. You will make them. The dog will make them. But human frustration -- that comes from lack of appropriate expectation of mistakes. Just as I would work with a frustrated dog, I recommend one of two approaches: learn to assess "Ok. Now why didn't that happen?" OR monitor building frustration and stop the session before it reaches critical mass. Use both.
Again, I generally find that dogs pick up this skill more quickly, given their adeptness with probability. They are more inclined to take a failure in stride, because a single trial does not significantly effect their overall picture.
"Out of the 100 times I sat, 64 of them resulted in something good. In my mind, there is a 64% chance of something good from sitting." Whether the actual number is 63 or 65, the overall probability of something good happening from sitting is high enough for the dog to continue to believe that "Sitting works!", even though it actually doesn't work 35-37% of the time.
ALL teachers -- owners, trainers, competitors -- experience some degree of failure. At some point, your student (dog) is not going to give you the response that is your goal. The student does not conjugate the French verb "aller". The dog doesn't sit. The client does not use a release word. The dog looks away from your eyes during a heeling exercise.
This single mistake is disheartening. There is something so human about a single failure making us into Charlie Brown "AAUGH!" The emotion of AAUGH! is, I believe, contagious between humans and dogs. I don't know if we push them into frustration because of our frustration or if they are so sympathetic as to just feel what we do, but I know that once I see frustration on either end of the leash, learning is about to stop.
Emotions and thinking do not coincide well. The brain does not multi-task. It can shift focus rapidly, but it does not multi-task. (Thanks, Dr. John Medina! All teachers should read "Brain Rules".) We exploit this to good effect when we ask frightened dogs to sit or give Hi-5 or heel. It is important to realize that this can work the other way as well.
Thinking can be interrupted by feeling equally well as feeling can be interrupted by thinking. You can stop your dog's lovely heel work with your few mis-timed reinforcers (punishments or rewards). Your mis-timing will frustrate the dog. "What the heck? NOW what are the rules?"
Since many dogs are good and kind, no one is chomped for this unfairness. But when I feel AAUGH!, if I had a mouthful of teeth and something squishy to chomp... well, I think it would take more than a few biscuits to stop me. Heaven help us if you decided to correct me for thinking about chomping! I'm not saying I excuse biting dogs, but I do understand them. (I am a shameless anthropomorphosizer. Or do I caninomorphi... ? well, whatever.)
Mistakes are part of the game. They are part of the experience. You will make them. The dog will make them. But human frustration -- that comes from lack of appropriate expectation of mistakes. Just as I would work with a frustrated dog, I recommend one of two approaches: learn to assess "Ok. Now why didn't that happen?" OR monitor building frustration and stop the session before it reaches critical mass. Use both.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Cue? Command? Trigger? Prompt?
ALL behavior is initiated by something. There is a "trigger", "cue", "prompt", "eliciter", "command" that starts every behavior. The dog receives some stimuli, which results in some mental processing. This starter -- the thing which tells you (the dog) what to do, how to respond -- can take a variety of forms.
I find that most dogs rely on a combination of clues to figure out what is going on, and what kind of behavior is called for. Now, sometimes this behavior is called for DELIBERATELY, by humans who are asking for something, and sometimes it's just dictated by being yourself (the dog).
The importance of physical location in helping the dog understand the question is evident when I meet dogs who sit with rapt attention to their owner in the living room, where their owner has carefully trained them to sit, and who don't even so much as glance at the owner outside the front door. Same command, same expectation, "SIT", but competely different results. The dog has accepted the texture of the carpet, the smell of the home, the location in the living room as PART of the question. It's how you (the dog) know what you (the dog) are supposed to do.
Scent is grossly underrated as a component of a command. The smell of treats or food can not ONLY serve as a motivator, but I suspect that it activates relevant neurons in the brain, ones that have to do with training. How do I generally act that is most likely to make this scent result in something in my mouth? (Unlike humans, analysis is not based on what happened LAST time but what is most likely overall. More on that in another post.)
If you train your dogs to follow scent, you must deliberately expose them to multiple fields, multiple conditions, so that the only variable that stays the same is the scent of the person you are following or of the crushed foliage, if you are tracking.
Sequence of events is also an often overlooked context. The squeal of hinges. The jingle of tags. A pause. The neighbor just let their dog out. How do I (the dog) respond?
Actions of owner can also be sequences of events. Did you get up late? Did no one go to work today? It must be weekend and therefore hiking/training/agility/etc day. There is a certain probable sequence of events that occur on "sleep late/don't leave" days. Going to the kitchen. Opening the treat container. Picking up the leash. Someone walking up the front steps and across the porch.
The importance of understanding the ENTIRE sequence of events is particularly important for beginning trainers who cannot yet steer through an exercise, and who must instead repeat the ENTIRE exercise. Failing to do so can be perceived by the dog as the human actually giving a DIFFERENT command. This is confusing to the dog. (Confusion generally yields a lack of successful results.)
The behavior of other dogs is not unknown as a "trigger" to owners of multiple dogs. This subject should also be a completely separate -- well, probably an encyclopedia. Suffice it to say that other dogs recognizably demand a behavioral response from your dog.
My position is that any dog will have to learn to deal with probably 100s of dogs who aren't happy about them, so I enforce the "cue" of dog body language that says, "Go away". Yup, I'm that owner. I don't listen to a word you say. I listen to what your dog is saying. So if your dog says, "Hey, who are you?" to my dog... I let my dog say hi. And when your dog says, "Uh, you are making me nervous"... my dog has to leave. In so doing, I actively teach my dogs to respond to cues (commands) given by other dogs.
(In my defense, I'm a poorly socialized human who prefers dogs to people. I'm not trying to not hear you. I see your dog, I have tunnel vision on your dog. It just happens.)
Behavior of humans is challenging, as anyone knows who has owned a dog with dominant bully, aggressive-fearful, or timid-fearful responses. Teaching the dog to read every human behavior as either "none of your doggy business" or non-threatening -- well, THAT is a project! Another post for details, but remember that by teaching, you can assign a specific right answer to the "question" of interaction with humans.
Sounds are often easily recognized by humans, because humans use & respond to sound cues themselves. The doorbell is an obvious one. Phone ringing. Your significant other saying, "Honey..." in that tone you know means you are going to have to do something you don't want to. Interestingly, in the list here, doorbell and phone are often relevant to dogs, while "Honeeey..." is not. Another post later on keeping your SO from learning how to "Honey..." you.
Althought sound is easily recognized, because of the similarities of sound importance to both species, sight is often over-rated by humans. Dogs actually do not see that well. Movement may either be easier to see, or just more likely to be interesting. They can be taught to use visual discrimination, but using visual cues does not come as naturally to dogs as it does to people. A dog doesn't care if you hold up one finger or a flat palm -- that's pretty much the same gesture unless you teach the dog that one finger means one thing, and flat palm means another.
Now, these cues are often cited as "causes" or "motivators" of behavior. This is incorrect. Your dog is not lunging at mine because mine approached. Your dog is lunging for the reward of either sniffing my dog or getting my dog to move away from it. But my dog's behavior is not responsible for your issue. In fact, my dog's behavior is not actually affecting your issue. The demand for reaction, the "cue" is no different than me walking past your dog and saying "SIT". The presentation (or avoidance of presentation) of the "question" is not responsible for your dog's failure to give a correct answer. Lack of deliberate teaching IS responsible.
If your dog gets it wrong, well, he gets it wrong. Not the end of the world. When your dog "gets it wrong", I see that behavior as a cue for my dog to go away, which I enforce when I need to. When your dog approaches mine, this is a cue. This is a teaching opportunity.
Traditional command training -- SIT, DOWN, HEEL, COME, LOOK, LEAVE IT, OFF, GO TO YOUR ROOM, FETCH, SHAKE, ROLL OVER, etc -- is taught using a variety of cues. Some trainers insist on a specific cue-- only voice, only hand signals, only leash signals, no touching, etc. This is plain silly. There is no magic in using any kind of cue.
There are reasons for choosing one type of cue over another -- for example, leash signals are not good for teaching off-leash response. Visual hand signals are not effective when your dog is in the next room. Scent cues, while probably the most natural way for a dog to discriminate, are immensely complicated to keep from being tainted and changing. Touching your dog may not be possible if it is fearful or a mouthy pup!
Say you choose something inconvenient. Can you change it? YES!! By consistently showing your dog that the unknown word cue "SIT" is always followed by whatever is the known visual hand signal, you can eventually eliminate the hand signal. Any cue can be changed from to another, just like humans learn that "Hola" = "Hello".
I find that most dogs rely on a combination of clues to figure out what is going on, and what kind of behavior is called for. Now, sometimes this behavior is called for DELIBERATELY, by humans who are asking for something, and sometimes it's just dictated by being yourself (the dog).
- Physical location
- Scent
- Sequence of events
- Actions taken by owner
- Behavior of other dogs
- Behavior of humans
- Sounds
- Deliberate sounds, leash/collar movement, touches, body language from handler (traditional commands)
- Others
The importance of physical location in helping the dog understand the question is evident when I meet dogs who sit with rapt attention to their owner in the living room, where their owner has carefully trained them to sit, and who don't even so much as glance at the owner outside the front door. Same command, same expectation, "SIT", but competely different results. The dog has accepted the texture of the carpet, the smell of the home, the location in the living room as PART of the question. It's how you (the dog) know what you (the dog) are supposed to do.
Scent is grossly underrated as a component of a command. The smell of treats or food can not ONLY serve as a motivator, but I suspect that it activates relevant neurons in the brain, ones that have to do with training. How do I generally act that is most likely to make this scent result in something in my mouth? (Unlike humans, analysis is not based on what happened LAST time but what is most likely overall. More on that in another post.)
If you train your dogs to follow scent, you must deliberately expose them to multiple fields, multiple conditions, so that the only variable that stays the same is the scent of the person you are following or of the crushed foliage, if you are tracking.
Sequence of events is also an often overlooked context. The squeal of hinges. The jingle of tags. A pause. The neighbor just let their dog out. How do I (the dog) respond?
Actions of owner can also be sequences of events. Did you get up late? Did no one go to work today? It must be weekend and therefore hiking/training/agility/etc day. There is a certain probable sequence of events that occur on "sleep late/don't leave" days. Going to the kitchen. Opening the treat container. Picking up the leash. Someone walking up the front steps and across the porch.
The importance of understanding the ENTIRE sequence of events is particularly important for beginning trainers who cannot yet steer through an exercise, and who must instead repeat the ENTIRE exercise. Failing to do so can be perceived by the dog as the human actually giving a DIFFERENT command. This is confusing to the dog. (Confusion generally yields a lack of successful results.)
The behavior of other dogs is not unknown as a "trigger" to owners of multiple dogs. This subject should also be a completely separate -- well, probably an encyclopedia. Suffice it to say that other dogs recognizably demand a behavioral response from your dog.
My position is that any dog will have to learn to deal with probably 100s of dogs who aren't happy about them, so I enforce the "cue" of dog body language that says, "Go away". Yup, I'm that owner. I don't listen to a word you say. I listen to what your dog is saying. So if your dog says, "Hey, who are you?" to my dog... I let my dog say hi. And when your dog says, "Uh, you are making me nervous"... my dog has to leave. In so doing, I actively teach my dogs to respond to cues (commands) given by other dogs.
(In my defense, I'm a poorly socialized human who prefers dogs to people. I'm not trying to not hear you. I see your dog, I have tunnel vision on your dog. It just happens.)
Behavior of humans is challenging, as anyone knows who has owned a dog with dominant bully, aggressive-fearful, or timid-fearful responses. Teaching the dog to read every human behavior as either "none of your doggy business" or non-threatening -- well, THAT is a project! Another post for details, but remember that by teaching, you can assign a specific right answer to the "question" of interaction with humans.
Sounds are often easily recognized by humans, because humans use & respond to sound cues themselves. The doorbell is an obvious one. Phone ringing. Your significant other saying, "Honey..." in that tone you know means you are going to have to do something you don't want to. Interestingly, in the list here, doorbell and phone are often relevant to dogs, while "Honeeey..." is not. Another post later on keeping your SO from learning how to "Honey..." you.
Althought sound is easily recognized, because of the similarities of sound importance to both species, sight is often over-rated by humans. Dogs actually do not see that well. Movement may either be easier to see, or just more likely to be interesting. They can be taught to use visual discrimination, but using visual cues does not come as naturally to dogs as it does to people. A dog doesn't care if you hold up one finger or a flat palm -- that's pretty much the same gesture unless you teach the dog that one finger means one thing, and flat palm means another.
Now, these cues are often cited as "causes" or "motivators" of behavior. This is incorrect. Your dog is not lunging at mine because mine approached. Your dog is lunging for the reward of either sniffing my dog or getting my dog to move away from it. But my dog's behavior is not responsible for your issue. In fact, my dog's behavior is not actually affecting your issue. The demand for reaction, the "cue" is no different than me walking past your dog and saying "SIT". The presentation (or avoidance of presentation) of the "question" is not responsible for your dog's failure to give a correct answer. Lack of deliberate teaching IS responsible.
If your dog gets it wrong, well, he gets it wrong. Not the end of the world. When your dog "gets it wrong", I see that behavior as a cue for my dog to go away, which I enforce when I need to. When your dog approaches mine, this is a cue. This is a teaching opportunity.
Traditional command training -- SIT, DOWN, HEEL, COME, LOOK, LEAVE IT, OFF, GO TO YOUR ROOM, FETCH, SHAKE, ROLL OVER, etc -- is taught using a variety of cues. Some trainers insist on a specific cue-- only voice, only hand signals, only leash signals, no touching, etc. This is plain silly. There is no magic in using any kind of cue.
There are reasons for choosing one type of cue over another -- for example, leash signals are not good for teaching off-leash response. Visual hand signals are not effective when your dog is in the next room. Scent cues, while probably the most natural way for a dog to discriminate, are immensely complicated to keep from being tainted and changing. Touching your dog may not be possible if it is fearful or a mouthy pup!
Say you choose something inconvenient. Can you change it? YES!! By consistently showing your dog that the unknown word cue "SIT" is always followed by whatever is the known visual hand signal, you can eventually eliminate the hand signal. Any cue can be changed from to another, just like humans learn that "Hola" = "Hello".
Friday, June 19, 2009
Train Brainy - Basics of Training For Command Response
"Training brainy" allows you to establish trust and stimulate thinking.
1. Give command & hand signal.
2. Get the dog to do what you asked.
3. Give release word.
4. Reward.
The command & hand signal can be thought of as a "question". You are presenting the dog with a challenge. An opportunity. An assignment.
When the dog gets the answer right, you give the release word. Not only does the release tell the dog when he is done, but it also becomes a reward. The release word becomes what behaviorists call a "secondary reinforcer".
There ARE dogs for whom getting the right answer, pleasing the handler, or receiving affection is a primary reinforcer. I find MOST dogs don't fall into this category.
Beginners, use food -- not just because dogs really like food, especially if hungry, but also for ease of controlled access. Non-beginners, play is a bit harder, but worth a try. It's addictive for both parties!
There are cognitive rewards (like stress relief or social status) which we must acknowledge exist as motivators, but which we have no vehicle with which to control the brain's access to these motivators.
So, great. Now we know how to train! All we do is follow the 4 steps, everything's fine. Right?
Chances are, the dog will make a mistake. You can think of your starting probability as 50/50 that the dog will get the answer right/wrong. When you see a mistake, do you teach through or do you regroup yourselves for another (hopefully better) trial?
It is also important to recognize that if the dog gets the answer right, the probability of the dog getting the next one right is high, but the probability of getting the next 20 right is much lower. Always quit when you have had success. 2-3 answers right is about quitting time on any new exercise. If you get 5 right answers in a row, without having to start from the beginning, definitely quit!
1. Give command & hand signal.
2. Get the dog to do what you asked.
3. Give release word.
4. Reward.
The command & hand signal can be thought of as a "question". You are presenting the dog with a challenge. An opportunity. An assignment.
When the dog gets the answer right, you give the release word. Not only does the release tell the dog when he is done, but it also becomes a reward. The release word becomes what behaviorists call a "secondary reinforcer".
If you are using a clicker, it is important to understand the functional role your clicker plays. The clicker can be used in a similar capacity as the release word (secondary reinforcer). It can also be used as feedback (tertiary reinforcer). It can also be used as both. It can be used as a command, but not if it is being used in a reinforcement (primary or secondary) capacity. Clicker is often attempted in a "distractor" capacity. I don't find this works out well. More on this in another post!The release word (secondary reinforcer) predicts the appearance of what the dog REALLY wants, which is food, play, etc. What the dog REALLY wants is called the "primary reinforcer". Primary reinforcers are motivators like food, sex, distance from danger, stress relief, social status, etc. Temple Grandin says that behavior comes from drive to stabilize core emotional states. These would also be considered "primary reinforcers" or "motivators".
There ARE dogs for whom getting the right answer, pleasing the handler, or receiving affection is a primary reinforcer. I find MOST dogs don't fall into this category.
Beginners, use food -- not just because dogs really like food, especially if hungry, but also for ease of controlled access. Non-beginners, play is a bit harder, but worth a try. It's addictive for both parties!
There are cognitive rewards (like stress relief or social status) which we must acknowledge exist as motivators, but which we have no vehicle with which to control the brain's access to these motivators.
So, great. Now we know how to train! All we do is follow the 4 steps, everything's fine. Right?
Chances are, the dog will make a mistake. You can think of your starting probability as 50/50 that the dog will get the answer right/wrong. When you see a mistake, do you teach through or do you regroup yourselves for another (hopefully better) trial?
- If you choose to teach through, you will need to make use of feedback to communicate precisely what is leading to the reward and what is making the reward farther away. Teaching use of feedback (tertiary reinforcers) will be covered in another post. Suffice it to say that feedback is a game of "hot & cold".
- If you are a beginner, or if you are not able to tell at if it is your mistake or the dog's mistake, I recommend simply telling the dog to "try again" (literally say those words to the dog) and start again from the very beginning of the exercise.
It is also important to recognize that if the dog gets the answer right, the probability of the dog getting the next one right is high, but the probability of getting the next 20 right is much lower. Always quit when you have had success. 2-3 answers right is about quitting time on any new exercise. If you get 5 right answers in a row, without having to start from the beginning, definitely quit!
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Punishment
Punishment is not an effective primary tool of learning. In the immortal words of Peter Gibbons in "Office Space" --
Punishments tend to damage the trust and eagerness most pet owners work hard to build. Pain activates circuits in the brain related to stress & frustration. No brains, dog or otherwise, can multi-task. Excessively painful punishment actually inhibits learning.
While aversive distractors can have a place in training, they can have tremendous side effects, and rapidly. For this reason, they are best left to professionals.
"When I make a mistake, I have eight different people coming by to tell me about it. That's my only real motivation is not to be hassled, that, and the fear of losing my job. But you know, Bob, that will only make someone work just hard enough not to get fired."Most of us want a relationship with our pets where the dog is actively interested in trying to please us, not just avoiding the hassle we eventually come to represent.
Punishments tend to damage the trust and eagerness most pet owners work hard to build. Pain activates circuits in the brain related to stress & frustration. No brains, dog or otherwise, can multi-task. Excessively painful punishment actually inhibits learning.
While aversive distractors can have a place in training, they can have tremendous side effects, and rapidly. For this reason, they are best left to professionals.
Fundamental Behavior Concepts
Although it is important to recognize that dogs are different from humans in what they value, the basic framework of learning is quite similar.
Whether you would describe the behavior as "good" or "bad", anything the dog finds rewarding will be repeated. The more "delicious" (salient) the dog finds the reward, the more difficult it will be to stop the dog from doing that behavior.
Effective training takes advantage of this idea in three ways:
Mistakes are often made in training because of a lack of comprehension of potential rewards. Most people recognize food and affection. Some other rewards dogs value include:
ALL behavior is motivated by pursuit of reward.
Whether you would describe the behavior as "good" or "bad", anything the dog finds rewarding will be repeated. The more "delicious" (salient) the dog finds the reward, the more difficult it will be to stop the dog from doing that behavior.
Effective training takes advantage of this idea in three ways:
- You can make sure it is very difficult to stop your dog from doing the behaviors you like by providing properly timed salient rewards.
- You can eliminate unwanted by ensuring that your dog no longer has access to the rewards incurred by unwanted behaviors.
- You can communicate with and teach your dog new (and fairly unnatural) behaviors by deliberately providing or removing access to motivators.
Mistakes are often made in training because of a lack of comprehension of potential rewards. Most people recognize food and affection. Some other rewards dogs value include:
- sex or interaction with the opposite sex
- play/social interaction
- touch/getting more or less
- attention/getting more or less
- sniffing/olfactory stimulation & processing
- proximity to novelty/going to or avoiding
- social status/higher or lower
- shelter
- visual access to stimuli/gaining or avoiding
- intellectual stimulation "work" -- digging, tracking, scent work, sports, etc.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
How to Train Brainy -- Teach a Dog to Respond to Commands (Beginners)
- Command
- Elicit--Get the dog to do what you want
- Release
- Reward
Punishment alone is definitely not an effective way to change behavior, because dogs are not THAT different from humans! In the immortal words of Peter Gibbons in "Office Space" --
"When I make a mistake, I have eight different people coming by to tell me about it. That's my only real motivation is not to be hassled, that, and the fear of losing my job. But you know, Bob, that will only make someone work just hard enough not to get fired."
Most of us want the dog to work eagerly, with enthusiasm, and in partnership with us. If your primary goal is for the dog to "respect" (fear) you, you have an ego problem. You should really talk to someone about why you feel so powerless as to find it rewarding to intimidate furry creatures under 3 feet tall. Can dominance be an issue? Yes. Can dominance (social status) affect response to commands? Yes. Does it have any place in the teaching of command response? No way.
The challenge of #2, Getting the dog to do what you want, is that you have to do two things at once. There are 2 parts to getting the dog to do what you want. One is what I call "eliciting" the behavior--showing the dog what you want, helping the dog to get the right answer. The other is communication -- what I call "steering" the behavior via feedback. The more often you and your dog work together doing 2 things at once, the easier it becomes.
"Eliciting" the behavior is generally what most trainers offer as "tips". For example, moving a treat over a puppy's head often results in the puppy sitting. This is one way to elicit the sit behavior. Another way is hands-on physical guiding of the puppy. Some trainers use a collar and leash to show the dog what they want. Still other trainers will simply wait for the dog to accidentally sit. These are all effective methods, and you may have thought of another that works!
Using distractions, distracting the dog back to focus on you, such as a noise or noisemaker, a tickle (lightly touching the dog, moving the hair against direction of growth) are part of eliciting. Some trainers use a leash & flat or other collar to do this. You've got to be watched by a trainer to use the leash distraction effectively.
"Feedback" is the harder of the two parts. To communicate the meaning of "good" and "no", you must teach what those mean AS you are teaching response to commands. And, while you do that, it is CRITICAL that your timing of any action or word is dead-on!
See why dog training is not quite as easy as it looks on TV? There is an intense amount of "juggling" you must do!
"Good" is the word you repeat as long as the dog is doing the right thing. Eventually, you will be able to use just the word "good", but in the beginning, you must communicate its meaning. Give 1 treat after each good.
"No" is a little red "X". "No" means "that's not what I want right now". It doesn't mean "never do that again", and even if you try to mean it, most dogs won't understand a single "no" to mean that, anyway! It does not mean "I will eat you". It does not mean "I will not tolerate that". It just means "no". In the "hot or cold" game we all played as kids, it's "cold" -- "you are not getting closer to the right answer".
To communicate the meaning of "no", there are a number of non-physical consequences that are effective.
Physical consequences should NEVER be instituted by a beginning trainer (owner) on a beginning dog. Any physical consequence you use should be directly supervised by a trainer who has effectively used this consequence. Although it is stated many times on "The Dog Whisperer", most beginners don't realize that physical consequence is ALWAYS "Do not try this at home". Appropriate physical consequence is a matter of some debate in the training community. While there is disagreement, I know of NO reputable trainer who would suggest hitting, kicking, swatting, using newspapers, sticks, or other similar attacks to your dog. Don't attack your dog if you are trying teach your dog not to attack.
Effective non-physical "No" consequences:
- moving treat farther from dog's nose
- breaking eye contact
- walking away from dog -- leaving training area/context (Don't leave dog with access to treats!)
- putting treat container back
- putting leash away instead of attaching for walk
- moving dog to time-out of 30-60 seconds or until dog is calm & relaxed
- treat moving closer
- paying attention/eye contact
- initiating training exercise or training session
- getting treat container out
- attaching the leash
- releasing the dog from time-out area
Part #4 is typically food at the most basic stages of training, but to take it to the next level, it is important to understand all the other non-food rewards that can motivate a dog's behavior.
Use your brain! Have fun training!
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Perspective -- What is it like to be...?
...a dog?
...THAT dog?
...that owner?
...dealing with that issue?
...THAT dog?
...that owner?
...dealing with that issue?
Cognitive Ethologist? Abnormal Canine Psychologist?
One significant difference between humans and dogs is dogs' inability to lie. I initially typed the word "limitation" in this sentence, and then began to ponder: What does that imply?" Canines can redirect, "fake out" a partner--I accidentally typed "person" with a picture of a dog in my head. Yeah, I'm a little nuts. -- maybe 'interlocutor' is the word I need?, but I believe they cannot lie.
So where is all this going? It's going to my desire to move the canine model from behaviorism to something cognitive. ALL behavior is motivated by something. Behavior is not random. So, a biting dog who simply needs more mental stimulation will benefit from obedience training or tracking work. A biting dog who needs social help will benefit from controlled & monitored social interactions. A biting dog who needs emotional help will benefit from exercise or pharmaceutical support. A biting dog who needs physical help will benefit from walks, treadmilling, & backpacks. Practically, I find dogs don't fit neatly into physical/mental/emotional/social. They have some degree of need in each direction. I start with the direction that seems farthest from normal, and often use combination therapies, such as wild play reward for intense obedience work, to address multiple needs at the same time. Now, this type of work is not what I would call "training". I think the closest description of my role would be abnormal canine psychologist? I'm not sure if that means the canine or the psychologist is abnormal... Which seems to fit, really.
So where is all this going? It's going to my desire to move the canine model from behaviorism to something cognitive. ALL behavior is motivated by something. Behavior is not random. So, a biting dog who simply needs more mental stimulation will benefit from obedience training or tracking work. A biting dog who needs social help will benefit from controlled & monitored social interactions. A biting dog who needs emotional help will benefit from exercise or pharmaceutical support. A biting dog who needs physical help will benefit from walks, treadmilling, & backpacks. Practically, I find dogs don't fit neatly into physical/mental/emotional/social. They have some degree of need in each direction. I start with the direction that seems farthest from normal, and often use combination therapies, such as wild play reward for intense obedience work, to address multiple needs at the same time. Now, this type of work is not what I would call "training". I think the closest description of my role would be abnormal canine psychologist? I'm not sure if that means the canine or the psychologist is abnormal... Which seems to fit, really.
I have a [breed] with [behavior]. What should I do?
I hope the person who inspired this post is not offended. Simply drew out what I recognize to be more of my personal weirdness, which I thank them for. I hope this inspires some discussion. Experts are people who realize how little they know! The more I learn, the more I realize I have so much to learn!
I do not like the idea that "protocols" are selected based on a few factors:
Dogs are more than their age or breed or behavior. Dogs are unique personalities, with a unique set of beliefs & reactions shaped by their genetics and their experience with the world. Not unlike us, in this way. Currently, some researchers have been evaluating the possible evolutionary functions of uniqueness. I'll be keeping an eye on where that goes. Because behaviorism is so popular for dogs, I find "diagnosis" generally focuses on describing behaviors. I am not a behaviorist. At the moment, I believe "cognitive ethology" comes closest to describing my viewpoint. I am, of course, open to changing my viewpoint whenever better knowledge comes along! More on cognitive ethology in another post?
For me, behavior is language. Language that expresses content. Content relative to their physical, social, emotional, and intellectual needs. Content that tells me WHY the dog is doing what it does, and WHAT is motivating it. Stopping one behavior and choosing a replacement, again, is not like substitution in a cake. To effectively address complicated behaviors like aggression, we need to address all the causes of the behavior, and teach through all the eliciters of the behavior.
My "diagnosis" of a situation is as much about the owner as it is about that of the dog.
Some "issues" are not quite so grand as the owner would like to make them out to be. Sometimes, owners do this because the owner doesn't want to own responsibility to address the behavior problems. They don't want to admit that a dog is too much for them. So, it's the dog's fault. Other times, owners minimize the behavior because they love the dog, and they don't want to fit bad behavior into their image of their darling Fifi. Again, the psychology of owner should probably be another post.
Owner-related motivations aside, owner personality is important. Is this someone who believes clicking or food or training collars are heresy? Don't choose a tool or approach the owner is pre-convinced won't work.
Is this someone who can humanely use the "effective" approach? I find that people who cringe when they see the prong collar initially fail to give an effective tap, and then later allow the poor dog to lean on the prongs and call it a success when the dog is reluctant to pull as hard as he initially did. Yikes.
Is this someone who can effectively use the "humane" approach? I find that some people fail to pre-emptively reward good behaviors, and reactively attempt to address behaviors already in progress by asking for a sit or down or leave it, which they teach thru using click & treat (C&T). This is not teaching how to initiate the proper response.
If I had my choice, all owners would be intelligent, sensitive, strapping, confident, forgiving, immune to opinions of others, and able to afford any services they cannot provide. This is not going to happen. Please contact me if you are male and fit this description -- I am single. If you are female and fit this description -- do you need a BFF?
One size does not fit all. Dog behavior management is difficult and varies in effectiveness because it is NOT simple.
I do not like the idea that "protocols" are selected based on a few factors:
- age
- breed
- "diagnosis" labels such as aggression, separation anxiety, dominance, etc.
Dogs are more than their age or breed or behavior. Dogs are unique personalities, with a unique set of beliefs & reactions shaped by their genetics and their experience with the world. Not unlike us, in this way. Currently, some researchers have been evaluating the possible evolutionary functions of uniqueness. I'll be keeping an eye on where that goes. Because behaviorism is so popular for dogs, I find "diagnosis" generally focuses on describing behaviors. I am not a behaviorist. At the moment, I believe "cognitive ethology" comes closest to describing my viewpoint. I am, of course, open to changing my viewpoint whenever better knowledge comes along! More on cognitive ethology in another post?
For me, behavior is language. Language that expresses content. Content relative to their physical, social, emotional, and intellectual needs. Content that tells me WHY the dog is doing what it does, and WHAT is motivating it. Stopping one behavior and choosing a replacement, again, is not like substitution in a cake. To effectively address complicated behaviors like aggression, we need to address all the causes of the behavior, and teach through all the eliciters of the behavior.
My "diagnosis" of a situation is as much about the owner as it is about that of the dog.
Some "issues" are not quite so grand as the owner would like to make them out to be. Sometimes, owners do this because the owner doesn't want to own responsibility to address the behavior problems. They don't want to admit that a dog is too much for them. So, it's the dog's fault. Other times, owners minimize the behavior because they love the dog, and they don't want to fit bad behavior into their image of their darling Fifi. Again, the psychology of owner should probably be another post.
Owner-related motivations aside, owner personality is important. Is this someone who believes clicking or food or training collars are heresy? Don't choose a tool or approach the owner is pre-convinced won't work.
Is this someone who can humanely use the "effective" approach? I find that people who cringe when they see the prong collar initially fail to give an effective tap, and then later allow the poor dog to lean on the prongs and call it a success when the dog is reluctant to pull as hard as he initially did. Yikes.
Is this someone who can effectively use the "humane" approach? I find that some people fail to pre-emptively reward good behaviors, and reactively attempt to address behaviors already in progress by asking for a sit or down or leave it, which they teach thru using click & treat (C&T). This is not teaching how to initiate the proper response.
- Does this person have the ability to observe and attend to the dog? Or do we need to use the simplest possible method with the greatest number of failsafes?
- Will the owner be safe & comfy? Not just from dog bites, but what is their general health & fitness? Can they tolerate being jumped on? Or is that a significant injury risk?
- What does the owner like to do with the dog? Do they throw frisbees, take off-leash hikes, or cuddle by the fire?
- Does "having control" make them feel more relaxed and at ease?
- Are they able to meet this dog's needs for exercise, confinement, supervision?
- What are the neighbors like? Will they freak out if you are using a prong collar or a Gentle Leader?
- What kind of risk is posed to the safety of cats, prey animals, other dogs, children, neighbors, strangers?
If I had my choice, all owners would be intelligent, sensitive, strapping, confident, forgiving, immune to opinions of others, and able to afford any services they cannot provide. This is not going to happen. Please contact me if you are male and fit this description -- I am single. If you are female and fit this description -- do you need a BFF?
One size does not fit all. Dog behavior management is difficult and varies in effectiveness because it is NOT simple.
Fear of Dogs... or Other Fears!
Stopping fear is not convincing your head w/ facts. It's convincing your heart w/ trust.
- Learn about dogs. Watch them on tv. Read books. Visit website. Talk to dog owners.
when you are ready
- Find a place to watch dogs from a "safe" distance. Watch. Learn.
when you are ready
- Ask trusted friends to bring their sweet, gentle dogs just near you, but not touching.
when you are ready
- Let the dog smell you
when you are ready
- Let the dog touch you
when you are ready
- Touch the dog.
when you are ready
- Walk the dog. Feed the dog.
My Experience with Allergies--Updated
So, it's true, apparently, that dogs resemble their owners. Lila has food & seasonal allergies. (Labrador and Weimaraner? Who'da thunk?)
Symptoms she's had include what I call "gakking", redness around the eyes, paw pads, toes, armpits, and underside, and redness and swelling inside the ears. Primarily, it's the scratching and licking I notice. At its worst, she lost significant amounts of hair, had atrocious diarrhea, & scratched herself open in a few spots.
After about 3 years of trial and error (poor pup), it seems that the biggest issue for Lila is corn. However, there are many other common allergens: Dairy, Corn, Soy, Wheat, Eggs, Artificial Preservatives, Colors or Flavors, Beef, Pork, Chicken, etc.
The thing about allergies (whether it's me or Lila) is that exposure to one primary allergen can sensitize you to other less irritating allergens. Ones that you may, actually, be able to tolerate if you are no longer exposed to the primary allergen. So, whether your dog has food or environmental allergies, they probably interplay with each other. This interplay makes it difficult to tell if things are getting better, worse, or not changing as you try various solutions.
Here's what I wish someone had told me:
PIBBLES:
In addition to being prone to seasonal & other allergies, especially among the "rare" colors, you "people" are prone to a condition that can mimic allergies, but is distinguishable by your vet via "skin scrapes". This inherited condition leaves you vulnerable to demodex mites whose normal population on your skin inexplicably skyrockets at times of increased stress to the immune system, which can include emotional stress. These mites (somehow) make you itch like crazy and lose hair.
Responsible breeders do not EVER breed dogs with this condition. We all know how many responsible pibble breeders there are.
If you have some hair loss around the face & head, especially noticeable around the eyes, and with not so much redness when you haven't been scratching-- you should probably get checked for demodectic mange. Although this condition is related to the immune system, and therefore benefitted by good quality food, medical intervention is the best way to get you comfy, hairy, and itch-free.
Symptoms she's had include what I call "gakking", redness around the eyes, paw pads, toes, armpits, and underside, and redness and swelling inside the ears. Primarily, it's the scratching and licking I notice. At its worst, she lost significant amounts of hair, had atrocious diarrhea, & scratched herself open in a few spots.
After about 3 years of trial and error (poor pup), it seems that the biggest issue for Lila is corn. However, there are many other common allergens: Dairy, Corn, Soy, Wheat, Eggs, Artificial Preservatives, Colors or Flavors, Beef, Pork, Chicken, etc.
The thing about allergies (whether it's me or Lila) is that exposure to one primary allergen can sensitize you to other less irritating allergens. Ones that you may, actually, be able to tolerate if you are no longer exposed to the primary allergen. So, whether your dog has food or environmental allergies, they probably interplay with each other. This interplay makes it difficult to tell if things are getting better, worse, or not changing as you try various solutions.
Here's what I wish someone had told me:
- Once you switch foods, allow 1-2 months to evaluate the effect. (Unless you see worsening. Then stop immediately!)
- There are a lot of allergy formula kibbles available, and many not significantly more costly than any other premium kibble.
- Choose the kibble with the minimum number of ingredients you can find/afford.
- Grains are often the primary culprit. I suspect rice the least, but I did just hear from a woman whose dog has rice allergy.
- Greenies, rawhides, edible nylabones, chew hooves, bones -- basically anything the dog would pass thru its digestive system need to be tested for allergy. This is best done after the dog is on a "safe" kibble. Don't give ANY of these items until you have a reliable diet.
- If your dog gets into the trash, grabs stuff from outside, etc., it can interfere with the results of your kibble testing.
- If you are fighting environmental allergies, you can help minimize exposure by washing the dog as frequently as you are able (every day is fine) with a soap-free shampoo like HyLyt. I dilute it with water before applying to the dog to avoid irritation. Be sure to rinse extremely thoroughly. Minimize scrubbing.
PIBBLES:
In addition to being prone to seasonal & other allergies, especially among the "rare" colors, you "people" are prone to a condition that can mimic allergies, but is distinguishable by your vet via "skin scrapes". This inherited condition leaves you vulnerable to demodex mites whose normal population on your skin inexplicably skyrockets at times of increased stress to the immune system, which can include emotional stress. These mites (somehow) make you itch like crazy and lose hair.
Responsible breeders do not EVER breed dogs with this condition. We all know how many responsible pibble breeders there are.
If you have some hair loss around the face & head, especially noticeable around the eyes, and with not so much redness when you haven't been scratching-- you should probably get checked for demodectic mange. Although this condition is related to the immune system, and therefore benefitted by good quality food, medical intervention is the best way to get you comfy, hairy, and itch-free.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Aversive? Punishment? Tomato? Potato?
The difference between aversive stimuli and punishment could be considered semantic. For me, the two terms reflect the subjectivity of what I will call The Unpleasant.
It's not that I think different people view The Unpleasant differently. Most people agree that The Unpleasant is... well, unpleasant. Thank goodness, except for a few pockets of inbred idiotry (mumble mumble Vick cough ghetto mumble mumble), we are mostly rid of the idea that dogs don't feel.
But what exactly they feel and how they are affected by it is a topic of some debate: Is The Unpleasant aversive or a punishment? Is there a difference? Does it matter?
Whether a dog calls a given Unpleasant "aversive" or "punishment" seems to depend on what kind of information he receives. For example, consider the experience of wearing an ordinary flat collar.
Initially, the majority of dogs find the sensation objectionable. This experience is "aversive". The dog does not like it, and wishes it would stop, but has no ability to affect its occurrence. Eventually, most of these dogs learn to deal with the sensation, whether it becomes an unrecognized baseline in the brain, or whether each recognition of irritation is met with a sigh of resignation, these are dogs who have learned to deal with an "aversive", and generally are not worse for the wear.
Once in a blue moon, there is born a dog who finds the insult, the indignity, the crushing weight, and the endless irritation beyond his ability to endure. This is the dog who pitches a royal fit, with prize-winning acrobatics, and vocalizations of either "Murder!!" or heartbreaking sobs.
Although most people, and, as we have mentioned above, dogs, would agree that wearing a flat collar is hardly abusive, and generally a reasonable expectation for a dog, THIS dog does not see it that way. His perspective is unwittingly enhanced by well-intentioned humans who remove the collar -- or sufficient wiggle-ry to exit the collar -- that give the pup the impression that this "punishment" is somehow associated with his behavior. THIS dog is being "punished". It is important to recognize that future experiences that result in this "punishment" will be viewed by the dog just as any other punishment would be. In the dog's mind, this is not "punishment", this IS punishment.
Where is this discussion coming from?
I find a terrible lack of either understanding or admission of the functionality of tools such as the Easy-Walk harness, the Halti, the Gentle Leader, the Calming Cap, muzzles. Placed on a dog of a certain extreme of personality, these tools are so Unpleasant as to be torture devices. Placed on a dog of the opposite extreme of personality, they lack sufficient Unpleasantness to be effective. Placed on a dog of the ideal middling personality, these tools are absolutely NOT non-aversive. When they are fitted and functioning properly, it is the Unpleasantness that effects a behavior change.
There are no mystical calming acupressure points on the bridge of canine noses or sternums, any more than there are mystical communicative points to be touched by certain TV dog shushers.
Causing a dog to shut down via Unpleasantness, whether alpha rolls, prong collars, or eye-popping pressure to the bridge of the nose -- well, if you are going to use it, you should at least admit what you are doing. I'm not saying there isn't that 1 in a million dog out there. I'm sure he's out there somewhere, and I'm ok with you doing what you need to if it ultimately benefits him within a reasonable time frame. I'm not thrilled, but ok, if you don't know what else to do, it beats euthanasia.
Still, I have to ask: Is training really about techniques? Click and feed and yank and crate and blind and muzzle and poke and roll? What then should we call the process of establishing a rapport, meeting the dog's needs, and asking him to meet mine? _I_ will call THAT dog whisperering, no matter to what else the term is (often mistakenly) applied.
It's not that I think different people view The Unpleasant differently. Most people agree that The Unpleasant is... well, unpleasant. Thank goodness, except for a few pockets of inbred idiotry (mumble mumble Vick cough ghetto mumble mumble), we are mostly rid of the idea that dogs don't feel.
But what exactly they feel and how they are affected by it is a topic of some debate: Is The Unpleasant aversive or a punishment? Is there a difference? Does it matter?
Whether a dog calls a given Unpleasant "aversive" or "punishment" seems to depend on what kind of information he receives. For example, consider the experience of wearing an ordinary flat collar.
Initially, the majority of dogs find the sensation objectionable. This experience is "aversive". The dog does not like it, and wishes it would stop, but has no ability to affect its occurrence. Eventually, most of these dogs learn to deal with the sensation, whether it becomes an unrecognized baseline in the brain, or whether each recognition of irritation is met with a sigh of resignation, these are dogs who have learned to deal with an "aversive", and generally are not worse for the wear.
Once in a blue moon, there is born a dog who finds the insult, the indignity, the crushing weight, and the endless irritation beyond his ability to endure. This is the dog who pitches a royal fit, with prize-winning acrobatics, and vocalizations of either "Murder!!" or heartbreaking sobs.
Although most people, and, as we have mentioned above, dogs, would agree that wearing a flat collar is hardly abusive, and generally a reasonable expectation for a dog, THIS dog does not see it that way. His perspective is unwittingly enhanced by well-intentioned humans who remove the collar -- or sufficient wiggle-ry to exit the collar -- that give the pup the impression that this "punishment" is somehow associated with his behavior. THIS dog is being "punished". It is important to recognize that future experiences that result in this "punishment" will be viewed by the dog just as any other punishment would be. In the dog's mind, this is not "punishment", this IS punishment.
Where is this discussion coming from?
I find a terrible lack of either understanding or admission of the functionality of tools such as the Easy-Walk harness, the Halti, the Gentle Leader, the Calming Cap, muzzles. Placed on a dog of a certain extreme of personality, these tools are so Unpleasant as to be torture devices. Placed on a dog of the opposite extreme of personality, they lack sufficient Unpleasantness to be effective. Placed on a dog of the ideal middling personality, these tools are absolutely NOT non-aversive. When they are fitted and functioning properly, it is the Unpleasantness that effects a behavior change.
There are no mystical calming acupressure points on the bridge of canine noses or sternums, any more than there are mystical communicative points to be touched by certain TV dog shushers.
Causing a dog to shut down via Unpleasantness, whether alpha rolls, prong collars, or eye-popping pressure to the bridge of the nose -- well, if you are going to use it, you should at least admit what you are doing. I'm not saying there isn't that 1 in a million dog out there. I'm sure he's out there somewhere, and I'm ok with you doing what you need to if it ultimately benefits him within a reasonable time frame. I'm not thrilled, but ok, if you don't know what else to do, it beats euthanasia.
Still, I have to ask: Is training really about techniques? Click and feed and yank and crate and blind and muzzle and poke and roll? What then should we call the process of establishing a rapport, meeting the dog's needs, and asking him to meet mine? _I_ will call THAT dog whisperering, no matter to what else the term is (often mistakenly) applied.
The Humane, The Effective, and The Ugly
I am apparently becoming "that pit bull lady". As such, I get contacted by folks nationwide looking for help. Often, it is often cost-prohibitive for me to travel to provide the help in person, so I find myself looking for someone to recommend.
It's extremely difficult. It would be far easier for me to just go and train them than to get ulcers trying to find a pro I trust. I have been known to charge just enough to cover my expenses to go train in person rather than try to find a referral.
Stereotypically, there are three groups:
(I hope you've been following me enough to know how little I think of stereotypes)
Hating the AKC, owning a Flexi leash, having titled a dog in something or using NILIF doesn't seem to put you in either group. They both can make a recommendation of solution based on very few facts, because the dog either needs some clicking or to be jerked around. Both groups do all of those things. They both like to disparage the techniques of the other, claiming it isn't personal while deep down thinking, "What kind of idiot thinks that could work?? Duh!!".
The "Balanced"
Ultimately, whether a trainer is "good" is not about which of the 3 camps they belong to, but about who is a good fit for you, your dog, and your goals. The reason all 3 camps survive is because there is room in the marketplace for each of the 3 approaches. Each can point to some degree of success, which is why they are able to continue. If one of them was 100% failing, no one would seek out their help, and they'd be choked out of the marketplace by the ones who could point to success.
Choose wisely. No one can erase devastating failures.
It's extremely difficult. It would be far easier for me to just go and train them than to get ulcers trying to find a pro I trust. I have been known to charge just enough to cover my expenses to go train in person rather than try to find a referral.
Stereotypically, there are three groups:
(I hope you've been following me enough to know how little I think of stereotypes)
- The "Humane" the good? the bad?
- The "Effective" the bad? the good?
- The "Balanced" definitely-- the ugly.
The "Humane"
- Female
- Concerned about homeless pets
- Emphasize "non-aversive", "punishment-free" techniques
- Ignorant of or in denial about how (actually aversive) equipment functions
- Minimally experienced with "hard" temperament dogs (regardless of breed)
- Extensive experience with "soft" temperament dogs (regardless of breed)
- Own a clicker, treat pouch, Gentle Leader, Easy-Walk harness, 6' nylon leash
- Own a Border Collie, Australian Shepherd, Sheltie, Greyhound, Jack Russell
- Do agility, flyball, frisbee
- Have a leash that doubles as a tug toy
- Deify behaviorism as the "science" of dog training
- Reject the idea that dominance can motivate behavior
- Seek continuing education from people whose philosophy & experience matches theirs
- Male
- Concerned about good breeding
- Emphasize "results" via compulsion & punishment techniques
- Ignorant of or in denial about negative reinforcers (are actually a reward)
- Minimally experienced with "soft" temperament dogs (regardless of breed)
- Extensive experience with "hard" temperament dogs (regardless of breed)
- Own a fursaver, choke chain, prong collar, shock collar, muzzle, leather leash
- Own a German Shepherd, Rottweiler, Doberman, Malinois, American Bulldog
- Do Schutzhund, Ring sport, KNPV
- Have a leash that doubles as a belt
- Deify "tradition" as proof of success
- Ascribe all unwanted behavior to dominance
- Reject continuing education
Hating the AKC, owning a Flexi leash, having titled a dog in something or using NILIF doesn't seem to put you in either group. They both can make a recommendation of solution based on very few facts, because the dog either needs some clicking or to be jerked around. Both groups do all of those things. They both like to disparage the techniques of the other, claiming it isn't personal while deep down thinking, "What kind of idiot thinks that could work?? Duh!!".
The "Balanced"
- Older or more years experience
- Fans of good breeding and rescue homeless
- Started out humane and added effective or started out effective and added humane
- Open to new ideas
- Understand how multiple approaches function
- Experience with "hard" and "soft" temperament dogs
- Own nearly every piece of training equipment on the market
- Rarely use more than a leash, collar, toy & treats -- often less
- Own a pet dog and a competition dog
- Do sports/activities based on what the dog enjoys
- Have a leash that is double-ended with 2 clips
- Have difficulty making recommendations to a specific dog & owner without knowing the details
- Question everything
- Seek out continuing education from people they are skeptical of or disagree with
Ultimately, whether a trainer is "good" is not about which of the 3 camps they belong to, but about who is a good fit for you, your dog, and your goals. The reason all 3 camps survive is because there is room in the marketplace for each of the 3 approaches. Each can point to some degree of success, which is why they are able to continue. If one of them was 100% failing, no one would seek out their help, and they'd be choked out of the marketplace by the ones who could point to success.
Choose wisely. No one can erase devastating failures.
Monday, June 8, 2009
Are Mistakes OK?
As always, yes... and no. Sometimes. It's not as simple as the question implies. The questions become: When are mistakes ok? What kind of mistakes are ok?
And if we agree that some mistakes ARE ok, then ... What do we do about mistakes? How do we react?
Do we ignore mistakes? Sometimes. When do we ignore them? What kind of mistakes or circumstances or personality dictate ignoring mistakes?
Do we permit natural consequences? Sometimes. When do we permit and when do we shelter? Age, kind of mistake, nature of consequence... Are there other deciding factors?
Do we impose artificial consequences? Sometimes. When do we impose them? What kind do we impose?
Mistakes on the part of the dog can be intentionally or accidentally elicited by us. How do we handle the accidental mistakes? Ignore? Permit natural consequences? Impose artificial ones?
Should we intentionally elicit mistakes? Sometimes. When? How do we respond to intentionally elicited mistakes?
I can't fathom that the humane, effective answers to all these questions are the same for every dog. Oversimplifying what is, in fact, the complicated is a sure sign of a lack of comprehension.
And if we agree that some mistakes ARE ok, then ... What do we do about mistakes? How do we react?
Do we ignore mistakes? Sometimes. When do we ignore them? What kind of mistakes or circumstances or personality dictate ignoring mistakes?
Do we permit natural consequences? Sometimes. When do we permit and when do we shelter? Age, kind of mistake, nature of consequence... Are there other deciding factors?
Do we impose artificial consequences? Sometimes. When do we impose them? What kind do we impose?
Mistakes on the part of the dog can be intentionally or accidentally elicited by us. How do we handle the accidental mistakes? Ignore? Permit natural consequences? Impose artificial ones?
Should we intentionally elicit mistakes? Sometimes. When? How do we respond to intentionally elicited mistakes?
I can't fathom that the humane, effective answers to all these questions are the same for every dog. Oversimplifying what is, in fact, the complicated is a sure sign of a lack of comprehension.
Solving Behavior Problems with Equipment Choice?
To say that equipment choice is controversial is an understatement. I have heard "[Insert name of equipment here] are awful and should be taken off the market!" AND
"[Insert name of equipment here] are fantastic and every dog must have one!" about nearly every bit of equipment out there.
Part of the issue is the ideal that 'one size fits all'. I wish it were that simple!
Another part of the controversy is that equipment choice is believed to be a predictor of how humane or effective the training will be. I do not believe this.
I believe [insert name of equipment here] can be used in a way that is
Although it is believed that the EQUIPMENT choice is making the difference, it is, in fact, the HUMAN who makes the difference. Humans whose interactions are both humane and effective (the ideal) are ones who understand what they are doing. They know why it works, and what its limitations are.
Generally, I find that people who are looking for equipment-based solutions are people who simply don't realize or don't want to admit that someone has failed somewhere along the line in the puppy's training. Looking for equipment is a REACTION, not a PRO-ACTION.
Go train those doggies! Mistakes are ok! Get help if you need it!
"[Insert name of equipment here] are fantastic and every dog must have one!" about nearly every bit of equipment out there.
Part of the issue is the ideal that 'one size fits all'. I wish it were that simple!
Another part of the controversy is that equipment choice is believed to be a predictor of how humane or effective the training will be. I do not believe this.
I believe [insert name of equipment here] can be used in a way that is
- humane and effective (GOAL!)
- humane but ineffective
- inhumane but effective
- inhumane and ineffective
Although it is believed that the EQUIPMENT choice is making the difference, it is, in fact, the HUMAN who makes the difference. Humans whose interactions are both humane and effective (the ideal) are ones who understand what they are doing. They know why it works, and what its limitations are.
Generally, I find that people who are looking for equipment-based solutions are people who simply don't realize or don't want to admit that someone has failed somewhere along the line in the puppy's training. Looking for equipment is a REACTION, not a PRO-ACTION.
Go train those doggies! Mistakes are ok! Get help if you need it!
Walking -- Guest Post on The House Dog's blog
Her blog is a must read. Be sure to check out shocking video.
Click here for her blog's home
Click here to go directly to my post
Click here for her blog's home
Click here to go directly to my post
Sunday, June 7, 2009
"Can Anxiety Can Be Trained Out Of A Dog?"
It was a question posed here, by a reader of Modern Dog magazine to "Ask the Dog Lady".
The answer, I argue, is not "yes" or "no". In uncharacteristic form, I will say that the answer is NOT "sometimes". The answer is that there is something wrong with the question.
Emotions and training are separate. Emotion is not intellect, nor is intellect emotion. I cannot train feelings. I can train artificial responses that some would describe as changing feelings, but this is not to say that I have changed the feeling.
I will repeat, "It's a DOG, not a BONSAI." Dogs close resemblance to humans is often cited as the reason for the success (well, from our view) of domestication.
What CAN be trained is the reduction of the observed anxiety-related behaviors, but because I am a cognitive ethologist, and NOT a behaviorist, I find this to be unacceptable.
Imagine yourself in the ER waiting room, pacing like a madman, waiting for word on your injured loved one. You, one could say, are ANXIOUS.
Now, let us say that someone offers you $100 to sit. You sit. How much less anxious are you now?
Alternatively, instead of the $100, you are warned that if you do not sit, you will be removed. You sit. Are you less anxious?
Still, an observer entering the room and finding you seated might describe you as less anxious than if they found you pacing. But -- what is occurring inside your brain is causing the behaviors, the behaviors do not significantly** change the brain.
Body language is, like verbal language, initiated by the brain. By the whizzing impulses, and ebb and flow of chemical transmitters. When a dog (or human) shows (tells) you that they feel anxious, there are 2 long-term options.
1) Remove the source of the anxiety. (may or may not be possible)
2) Teach the dog how to effectively deal with the source of the anxiety.
Short-term,
1) Remove brain response to anxiety (chemically or otherwise)
2) Vent anxiety (any enjoyable activity)
**Yes, there is some recent research that suggests habitual behaviors affect the brain. That's all I know 'bout that.
The answer, I argue, is not "yes" or "no". In uncharacteristic form, I will say that the answer is NOT "sometimes". The answer is that there is something wrong with the question.
Emotions and training are separate. Emotion is not intellect, nor is intellect emotion. I cannot train feelings. I can train artificial responses that some would describe as changing feelings, but this is not to say that I have changed the feeling.
I will repeat, "It's a DOG, not a BONSAI." Dogs close resemblance to humans is often cited as the reason for the success (well, from our view) of domestication.
What CAN be trained is the reduction of the observed anxiety-related behaviors, but because I am a cognitive ethologist, and NOT a behaviorist, I find this to be unacceptable.
Imagine yourself in the ER waiting room, pacing like a madman, waiting for word on your injured loved one. You, one could say, are ANXIOUS.
Now, let us say that someone offers you $100 to sit. You sit. How much less anxious are you now?
Alternatively, instead of the $100, you are warned that if you do not sit, you will be removed. You sit. Are you less anxious?
Still, an observer entering the room and finding you seated might describe you as less anxious than if they found you pacing. But -- what is occurring inside your brain is causing the behaviors, the behaviors do not significantly** change the brain.
Body language is, like verbal language, initiated by the brain. By the whizzing impulses, and ebb and flow of chemical transmitters. When a dog (or human) shows (tells) you that they feel anxious, there are 2 long-term options.
1) Remove the source of the anxiety. (may or may not be possible)
2) Teach the dog how to effectively deal with the source of the anxiety.
Short-term,
1) Remove brain response to anxiety (chemically or otherwise)
2) Vent anxiety (any enjoyable activity)
**Yes, there is some recent research that suggests habitual behaviors affect the brain. That's all I know 'bout that.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Play = Conversation
Play is the most interactive activity dogs engage in with other dogs. Because they "talk" with behavior, play is a kind of "jaw session" that gives opportunity for expression. Now, let's not get carried away, it's not about the aesthetics of the poodle next door, it's more about assessing social status, personality... & how are you feeling right now?
If I take the toy from you, do you become angry? Or do you completely lose interest? Do you lunge at me and grab your toy back forcefully? When you "overpower" me & "win", do you drop your intensity to play at my capacity? Do you offer me the toy back or do you frolick it up in the corner with a sideways glance to see if I see how interesting and fun it is? Do you give me a chance to win? If I win, do you sulk? What kind of angles, speeds, and attitude do you approach with? When you retreat, are you saying you want me to back off or are you enticing me to follow?
The range of personality is truly amazing, and largely responsible for my personal interest in personality typing among dogs. I find evidence of what Bekoff is calling "ethical" behavior among dogs. I think dogs DO have ethics, but I hesitate to say so, because I guarantee some fool will claim the ethics are related to compliance with obedience commands or eliminating in the correct spot. No way.
What I am certain about is that play touches on social issues: trust, leadership, ownership, and others I don't have words for. It touches on the emotions of frustration, confidence, and what Temple Grandin calls "seeking" behavior. It provides intellectual stimulation (or, negatively, stress of unpredictability) when the rules keep changing -- which I intentionally do to elicit better and better responses.
My version of the "variable reward schedule" changes how much and what quality of work I expect from you to keep the game going.
I could write a book on playing with dogs. Anyone want to do a TV show on it?
If I take the toy from you, do you become angry? Or do you completely lose interest? Do you lunge at me and grab your toy back forcefully? When you "overpower" me & "win", do you drop your intensity to play at my capacity? Do you offer me the toy back or do you frolick it up in the corner with a sideways glance to see if I see how interesting and fun it is? Do you give me a chance to win? If I win, do you sulk? What kind of angles, speeds, and attitude do you approach with? When you retreat, are you saying you want me to back off or are you enticing me to follow?
The range of personality is truly amazing, and largely responsible for my personal interest in personality typing among dogs. I find evidence of what Bekoff is calling "ethical" behavior among dogs. I think dogs DO have ethics, but I hesitate to say so, because I guarantee some fool will claim the ethics are related to compliance with obedience commands or eliminating in the correct spot. No way.
What I am certain about is that play touches on social issues: trust, leadership, ownership, and others I don't have words for. It touches on the emotions of frustration, confidence, and what Temple Grandin calls "seeking" behavior. It provides intellectual stimulation (or, negatively, stress of unpredictability) when the rules keep changing -- which I intentionally do to elicit better and better responses.
My version of the "variable reward schedule" changes how much and what quality of work I expect from you to keep the game going.
I could write a book on playing with dogs. Anyone want to do a TV show on it?
Friday, June 5, 2009
Playing with your dog
Play is a controversial topic among dog trainers. I've heard everything from "You MUST play with your dog." to "You should NEVER play with your dog."
So how does the average pet owner figure out what to do? Ask why.
Why MUST you play with your dog?
For play-motivated, particularly high-energy dogs, play can provide an intensity of BOTH mental and physical stimulation. This type of stimulation is required for mental health and well-being (i.e., preventing problem behaviors).
However, if your dog shows absolutely no interest in playing with you, FORCING is opposite of playing! You literally cannot compel a dog to play with you.
You can, however, train for play behaviors. This is occasionally needed among undersocialized adolescents (typically strays or otherwise deprived of typical "pet" puppyhood experiences). You may find that things suddenly click, and the dog has the confidence to playfully assert his wishes and the trust that you will not eat him when he shows interest in your toy.
Why should you NEVER play with your dog?
Play can be intensely rewarding. Which is a great thing if you are carefully rewarding only desirable behaviors.
BUT, just like on a children's playground, each session has its own unique set of rules -- which can come into dispute. There is nice play, and there is mean play. On both sides of the toy.
So antagonizing a dog, teasing, bullying, or just otherwise doing things that are unwelcome FOLLOWED by continued play? You are telling your dog,"Yes, I want you angry, tense, and strung out." You can be rewarding aggressive behaviors.
Additionally, the bullying can come from the other side of the toy: your dog. If your dog makes all the rules, telling you when, where, and how to play? Rewarding this is saying, "Yes, you are the leader here."
The key is the same as above: just as you can't force a dog to play, a dog can't force you to play! You set the terms and conditions (which should be fair) and if they are not met? Game over!
It is important to recognize that different dogs tend to have different definitions of "winning", "losing", "game on/off", "fair", "waxing/waning interest", etc. I find there are some signature preferences among Shepherd-type dogs as compared to bull-and-terrier breeds.
So how does the average pet owner figure out what to do? Ask why.
Why MUST you play with your dog?
For play-motivated, particularly high-energy dogs, play can provide an intensity of BOTH mental and physical stimulation. This type of stimulation is required for mental health and well-being (i.e., preventing problem behaviors).
However, if your dog shows absolutely no interest in playing with you, FORCING is opposite of playing! You literally cannot compel a dog to play with you.
You can, however, train for play behaviors. This is occasionally needed among undersocialized adolescents (typically strays or otherwise deprived of typical "pet" puppyhood experiences). You may find that things suddenly click, and the dog has the confidence to playfully assert his wishes and the trust that you will not eat him when he shows interest in your toy.
Why should you NEVER play with your dog?
Play can be intensely rewarding. Which is a great thing if you are carefully rewarding only desirable behaviors.
BUT, just like on a children's playground, each session has its own unique set of rules -- which can come into dispute. There is nice play, and there is mean play. On both sides of the toy.
So antagonizing a dog, teasing, bullying, or just otherwise doing things that are unwelcome FOLLOWED by continued play? You are telling your dog,"Yes, I want you angry, tense, and strung out." You can be rewarding aggressive behaviors.
Additionally, the bullying can come from the other side of the toy: your dog. If your dog makes all the rules, telling you when, where, and how to play? Rewarding this is saying, "Yes, you are the leader here."
The key is the same as above: just as you can't force a dog to play, a dog can't force you to play! You set the terms and conditions (which should be fair) and if they are not met? Game over!
It is important to recognize that different dogs tend to have different definitions of "winning", "losing", "game on/off", "fair", "waxing/waning interest", etc. I find there are some signature preferences among Shepherd-type dogs as compared to bull-and-terrier breeds.
It's a dog, not a bonsai
Visited Borders tonight, and, ... surprise! I find myself in the dogs section. And it struck me that there was something fundamentally wrong with the message that these books convey.
The message is that you will build and form this little canine mind into whatever you desire.
And, if your dog is not exactly the dream dog you build in your mind, well, it's that you aren't doing it right. You should reward more or correct more or dominate more... You need more, and you should get it.
Well, I'm saying authoritatively: You don't need more.
Probably, if you find yourself in the dog training book section, you have a dog doing some things you want LESS of. Most likely you find yourself short on either sufficient funds or humility to locate a human to assist you.
Whether it's that you want to prove to the world that a Neopolitan Mastiff can be a flyball champion or that you want to prove to yourself that you can train a dog without any help, the effect of ego involvement is tremendous. And not beneficial.
When you interact with a dog, or anyone else for that matter, let it be about meeting that dog's or that person's needs. Whatever they are. No matter how insane or extreme those needs are, do your best to give everything you can.
Let me know what comes back to you. I promise you -- good stuff will.
The message is that you will build and form this little canine mind into whatever you desire.
And, if your dog is not exactly the dream dog you build in your mind, well, it's that you aren't doing it right. You should reward more or correct more or dominate more... You need more, and you should get it.
Well, I'm saying authoritatively: You don't need more.
Probably, if you find yourself in the dog training book section, you have a dog doing some things you want LESS of. Most likely you find yourself short on either sufficient funds or humility to locate a human to assist you.
Whether it's that you want to prove to the world that a Neopolitan Mastiff can be a flyball champion or that you want to prove to yourself that you can train a dog without any help, the effect of ego involvement is tremendous. And not beneficial.
When you interact with a dog, or anyone else for that matter, let it be about meeting that dog's or that person's needs. Whatever they are. No matter how insane or extreme those needs are, do your best to give everything you can.
Let me know what comes back to you. I promise you -- good stuff will.
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